Fixing a sole plate to exterior concrete slab

[Chris Bacon]

Bed it on a mortar fillet to raise it above the level of the slab, or brick up a course or two and build on that.

Overhang the plate with the "cladding".

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Fix your time

[John Rumm]

If the building is going to have a timber suspended floor, then you can sit the plate on bricks spaced every so often, then clad down a bit below the base of the plate to hide most of the depth of the bricks. That will still let some airflow under the building to keep it dry. Obviously if you were planning on using the slab base as your floor then you would need to use a proper course of bricks like Chris suggested.

[taylor.mark1966]

Hi, i need some advice, just about to build a timber outbuilding onto

concrete slab, and need a queston answered. If i fix a treated timbe sole plate to the slab with a dps between, what is there to stop wate ingress into the building under the dpc? Also once the outer claddin is on whats the best way to stop the water run down the wall on to th sole plate? Thank

-- taylor.mark1966

[taylor.mark1966]

Thanks all

i was thinking of a brick course but not very good with bricks.......

also thought about the timber on mortar over the dps but wont the sol plate move this way or do i sandwich the dps between?

what about using a Bitumen dps under the timber will this not seal th gap?

yes the slab will be the floor but i will be using a leveling compoun on it to finnish.

ideally i would have loved to screed the floor, but cant as this wil not be possible.

Unfortunatly i didn't lay the slab. I've just been lumbered with thi job to sort out for friend. rest of the building not a proble carpenter/plumber by trade.

Dont build many outside buildings decking and shed fine but this i something very different.

thanks agai

-- taylor.mark1966

[taylor.mark1966]

Thanks all

i was thinking of a brick course but not very good with bricks.......

also thought about the timber on mortar over the dps but wont the sol plate move this way or do i sandwich the dps between?

what about using a Bitumen dps under the timber will this not seal th gap?

yes the slab will be the floor but i will be using a leveling compoun on it to finnish.

ideally i would have loved to screed the floor, but cant as this wil not be possible.

Unfortunatly i didn't lay the slab. I've just been lumbered with thi job to sort out for friend. rest of the building not a proble carpenter/plumber by trade.

Dont build many outside buildings decking and shed fine but this i something very different.

thanks agai

-- taylor.mark1966

[The Natural Philosopher]

What you SHOULD do if you want everything tight and dry is to have a DPM under the slab, and run it up a brick plinth about 2-3 courses higher and strap your sole plates over a DPM to THAT.

The cladding should extend past the sole plate and end in a drip bead,

[Chris Bacon]

You will probably get a problem with the timber if it's that close to the ground. You're going to build up on this. The rest of the structure depends on it. I should do a good job that will last. If you can't face the idea of brick, why not make up a timber former, and lay a concrete footing straight onto the slab? Put the DPC on that, then the timber, and bolt straight through into the concrete slab with hammer fixing or something?

Why can't you screed it? Material cost? Something else? If you put on a thick screed you could build up on that.

[taylor.mark1966]

You will probably get a problem with the timber if it's that close

to the ground. You're going to build up on this. The rest of the structure depends on it. I should do a good job that will last. If you can't face the idea of brick, why not make up a timber former, and lay a concrete footing straight onto the slab? Put the DPC on that, then the timber, and bolt straight through into the concrete slab with hammer fixing or something?

Good idea above will need to leave a gap for the door out because o the slab level to house, was going to use a a double layer of dpc unde the treated timber, just dont want water to run under.

yes the slab will be the floor but i will be using a levelin compound on it to finnish. ideally i would have loved to screed the floor, but cant as this will not be possible.

Why can't you screed it? Material cost? Something else? If you put on a thick screed you could build up on that.

the main building/sunroom is connected to the rear of the house an concrete slab which was put down is level with the floor of the house.

im trying to help a friend out with this, if this was from scratch i have made the slab lower and to the correct size of the building/su room, then fitted a dps and treated timber sole plate strapped down over then built frame/stud wall on to it. Her dippy brother who knows it al did the slab........ cow boy builders.com works for a council propert services contractor in oxfordshire bodge it and scarper............

i'm having to work on very tight budet as she want the biggest possibl room without pp. mate rates..................

-- taylor.mark1966