fitting toilet filling valve -threaded section is too long

[noos999]

Hi all

I need to replace the filling valve on my toilet, in which the cistern is filled from the bottom. The replacement valve that I bought has a longer plastic threaded section than the old one, but I want to avoid changing any of the supply pipework.

This is a link to a picture of the replacement valve that I bought:

think if I simply cut off the excess from the threaded section (the excess is about 1 cm or so) with a hacksaw, it will be impossible to get a flat end so I won't get a good seal?

Can anyone think of a solution that avoids having to alter the supply pipework?

Thanks

Julian

[David Hansen]

On 3 Dec 2006 08:22:03 -0800 someone who may be " [e-mail]" wrote this:-

You either have to modify the supply pipework or the valve pipework.

Assuming you have copper supply pipework personally I would fit a copperbend to the supply pipework to take up any flexing. This can then be bent to suit new valves in future.

[Ron Lowe]

Like David says, you will have to cut one or the other.

I would not like to cut the plastic threaded pipe, I doubt you'd get it square enough for a good seal on the washer. But I think the copper bendy pipes look rather ugly.

Personally, I would cut back the copper supply pipework a foot or so, allowing me to fit a service valve and a flexi-hose, like one of these:

of these incorporate a service valve too, so even neater.

[Psst]

k rather ugly.

I agree,get a braided flexi hose which has a 15mm compression tail on it and then it will be nice n neat and an easy diy job. Dont forget to turn the water off :)

[Phil L]

It doesn't seal at the end of the thread, it seals at the beginning, IE the shoulder where it meets the cistern.

[noos999]

This sounds like a good solution, many thanks to everyone for the suggestions...

Julian

Psst wrote:

[Dave Liquorice]

The valve seals to the cistern there but the supply pipe to valve seals on the thread end, inside the tap connector against a fibre washer.

I reckon if you where careful to ensure a proper 90 deg cut (use a mitre saw or block, and clean the end up) you could shorten the valve stub without trouble or problems making a water proof joint. Firstly I'd check to see how much play there is in the pipework though, there might be enough. Saves a lot of messing about. B-)

[Ron Lowe]

Yes, it 'ought' to be possible. If you want hours of fun, you could make it work.

But in reality, the saw will be inclined ( to a greater or lesses extent ) follow the angle of the thread, and be off-square, and the cut plastic end will be 'hairy' and not nice to clean up. Sure, if you have the necessary tools, it's possible to make a square cut etc etc. But given the context of the OP, is it really the best solution for him? I really doubt it.

But otherwise, just use a flexible hose with a tap connector on the end and be done wth it. You know it makes sense.

[Jack]

I just had the same problem and here is my solution.

Use the large plastic nut (the one that with go on the threaded section) as a guide, when you cut it to the correct length. Keep the nut on the threaded section, use a sanding block to get it square and smooth. Then, use a wrap of teflon tape , around those threads, when you connect the water supply nut, just for a tight fit.

It took me about an hour and it worked.

This was the product...

[DerbyBorn]

Jack wrote in news:dq1bB.343768$ [e-mail]:

The tread is not part of the "sealing" the face that you carefully sanded should butt against the incoming water fitting and a fibre washer should form the seal.

[Brian Gaff]

Only plastic nuts read via this portal! grin. Brian