"fitting guttering"

I was surprised to find no mention of this subject in alt.building.construction or free.uk.diy.home and nothing detailing how to go about it in uk.d-i-y.

I am about to put some up on a rather large building with the downspouts at the corners. I was wondering what would look the best just to put the brackets up and start fitting or to mark out where all the lengths are going to end in order to get some sort of symmetry.

Reply to
Weatherlawyer
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"Look best"? Call the seamless guttering people and let them do it. It'll be cheaper in the long run especially if you value your time at more than $5 an hour.

Reply to
Steve Barker

I'm getting considerably more than that for my trouble. What is the minimum wage across the pond these days?

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

Tips.

Mike

Reply to
Mike

All I meant was that by the time you research, procure, figure out, and install, you will have spent countless hours and they could have your SEAMLESS guttering done by then.

To answer your question, the federal minimum is $5.15. Many of the states however, have higher minimums.

Reply to
Steve Barker

£2.60 per hour...you'd be lucky if you could get someone to sweep up for that these days....any partially skilled person commands (in bucks, not quids) at least $15 per hour...a tradesman will get at least $30 per hour working in the UK (£15) and twice that in the better paid areas/jobs.
Reply to
Phil L

2=2E60 per hour isn't too bad when you consider they all eat a hearty breakfast and don't seem more troubled about crime than we are. Fuel is relatively cheap over there and taxes must work to keep things in a stable state.

I was just interested in trade values and such but really I wanted to open the original subject up for discussion as it doesn't seem to be covered very well. There are obvious sites explaining the methods such as B&Q's help pages.

Browsing a few of them they all give a different reading for the "fall". The primary thing is to get the brackets under the tiles without struggling. There should be enough of an overhang to allow a drop before the water hits the channel. Besides which, forcing the highest bracket up too close might mean the top screw in it is closer to the edge of the timber than it needs to be.

In other words putting the guttering on level might be OK if there is enough support to prevent pooling. The bulk of the work was done in selecting the right width for the fascia boards and enough overhang for the tiles.

Oh, yes; and that with rubber inserts in the joints you aught to use a silicon lubricant. But you all knew that didn't you?

I certainly didn't want to get into politics. Our country (the UK) is very precariously balanced at the moment and it would not take a great deal for it to slide way out of kilter once the housing market pours away. And the sluice gates are already open.

Not only that but the Prime Minister is a moron's moron in that he is a glove puppet to a chimp.

Well, I shall be back at work tomorrow putting el cheapo half round up, on a grossly overpriced shed in a cold neck of the woods. Can't say I am looking forward to it. But the money is as good as I have earned in a long while.

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

My point was that it will take you 6 times longer than the pros to figure it out and do it. And so, the reference to the $5 an hour was just an arbitrary number meaning it will be cheaper in the long run to have it done.

Reply to
Steve Barker

Besides, if you have to ask how to 'hang' guttering you shouldn't be charging for it.

P

Reply to
Peter

Precisely and what is even more to the point any of the DIY manuals show how to do it.

If I was getting paid to do a job, I would swallow hard before coming here and asking how to do it.

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

What you need to do for each elevation is screw the outlet into place, obviously at the lowest point (without it looking ridiculous)...you mentioned that these were to be at the corners? - then tie a stringline to it, so that the string is coming up through the outlet and along the fascia to the opposite end of the elvation where you fit your first bracket, as high up as it will go (touching the underside of the tiles.), you ties the string (fairly tightly) to this end bracket, then use a 1m spacer, any old piece of timber will do, and affix a bracket all the way along, pushing them upwards so that they touch the underside of the string, but not lifting it up.

Level is fine provided it's impossible to get a fall, don't forget, this time next year there will be half a wheelbarrow of dead leaves and birdshit in the bottom of it too.

Osma plastics have pre lubed seals.

on that we can agree, the guy's a 2@ of the highest order.

NG's and FU's trimmed

Reply to
Phil L

I had the day off and was curious to see what the newsgroups had to say on the subject. I was surprised to find so little. So you are quite right. If I had needed advice, I should have been in trouble coming here for it.

It was interesting to see what advice I was actually given. Not least from the sanctimonious.

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

Sanctimonious ? - well at least I don't have the cheek to take a paid job for something I don't know how to do, and then go and ask the amateurs how to do it. That's hypocrisy.

As far as advice is concerned form this NG, it is second to none if you treat the contributors with the respect they deserve.

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

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