Fitting a bath

[Jim]

I would comment that a cast iron bath will fit successfully in a Audi

100 estate and was accepted at our local tip in the "Metal" section.

[Andy Burns]

Where it would then be smashed up, if it were smashed up beforehand it would fit into the boot of a Nissan Micra!

[A.Lee]

It is cast iron. Very hard. Easy to shatter, hard to drill. Alan.

[Dave]

What deterred She Who Thinks She Must Be Obeyed and I was the fact that they can scratch easily.

This was the type of bath we ended up with, but examine it carefully. Ours was chipped, I think by the careless way the packaging had been done and that the supplier may have stacked several baths. Two baths after the first was discovered chipped, we got our tame plumber in to fit it.

I made ours from some laminate flooring and glued it together. It still looks good some 4 years later and when you get bored with it, it doesn't cost much to make another one.

Dave

[Dave]

Another thing to consider if you do have a shower over it is to make sure that the outflow from the shower water runs past your feet to the waste outlet. This helps stop you slipping on the soapy water. Our plumber persuaded us to turn the bath 180 degrees and I regretted it after the first shower, as it made the bath slippy.

Dave

[Dave]

Is this the point that the angle grinder is introduced? :-)

Dave

[Dave]

And that can be very painful. BTDT and WTTS

Dave

[Dave]

The enamel will be your enemy there.

Dave

[Dave]

I noticed that a half full bath was recommended earlier in this thread. Why only half full, when the occupant and water will make it full. My thinking is that the silicone will split when a full load and occupant is in the bath. Am I missing something?

Dave

[<me9]

If you /can/ get it out in one piece, it may then demolish the house as you slide it down the stairs. Cast iron baths are very heavy. Just ask any plumber over 60 how they got their bad back!

[<me9]

My local scrappie is half the distance to the tip, and also gives beer tokens in exchange for metalic scrap!

[Fredxx]

Not sure if this is what you're saying. After having both choices, I would prefer the shower to be at the tap end. The non outlet end has a gentler slope, from being designed to be sat against, and so is more restricted on how close you can get to the shower head, if that end, before slipping.

[ARWadsworth]

That was my experience when I fitted a bath at my parents.

I swapped the bath around 180deg so that they stand on the plug end.

Adam

[Tony Bryer]

Do you mean putting the shower over the end of the bath away from the taps? I did this when I changed my bath mainly because it made cleaning a lot easier - lots of hard water scum collecting round the taps on the original install.

[geoff]

In message , [e-mail] writes

Mine comes and picks up

[F]

That's ok, but mine were fine...

[F]

Eventually.

[Dave]

We have a dormered bathroom. This means that our old set up had the bath drain at the dormer end, along with the taps. The power shower was at the non tap end and we got a flow of water around/under our feet that washed away the soapy water.

Now, we have the drain at the wall end and no flow around our feet Because of this, our feet can get soapy and be slippy.

HTH

Dave

[Dave]

Basically, yes. The taps are usually at the drain end of a bath.

Mainly because it let the water flow from the shower, take away the soap from under your feet.

Face shower head, soap up and the shower would rinse you off so the soap would run below your feet to bath outlet.

I'm not too good these days about explaining things :-(

Dave

[Huge]

FSVO "easy". I started off with a small claw hammer and worked my way up to a large sledge hammer. And even then, I had to hit it *hard*.