the local angels have kicked down my front wall
wife wants a fence up(just across the front ,i have hedges to each side)
don't like larch lap,was thinking of using flooring planks t&g and treating
it,think it will look ok if i round the top with my jigsaw
is this viable guys?
The answer to that is to chamfer the edges, so that the gaps look
As Grunff says, pressure treated timber will last far longer, but I would
also suggest that, if you do use that, also use a nail that will last too. I
made a couple of gates over 20 years ago with pressure treated timber and
bronze ring barb nails, from my local yacht chandler. Apart from needing to
replace some of the weather edge along the top, they have hardly needed any
maintenance since I put them up.
On Thu, 30 Oct 2003 08:19:30 -0000, "nightjar" <nightjar@<insert my
surname here>.uk.com> wrote:
I have found galvanised nails very effective. I usually predrill for
them to reduce the chance of splitting and also to ease the strain on
the already planted posts
While I would definitely agree re pressure treated posts and for any
part that will be in contact with the ground, we have some fencing
where the intermediaries, which are well clear of ground level, are
just softwood (re-claimed, I'm a tight b*****d), have survived 15
years so far with nothing more than a soaking of creosote annually, if
Paul Mc Cann
Round here rough sawn pressure treated is extremely cheap -
pennies more than non-treated. You put it up and for get about
it for 25 years or so.
I reckon creosoting all our fences/gates/other outdoor timber
would take the best part of a week. I'm really not prepared to
spend one week per year doing that (that's 2% of the year!!).
All wood will adjust to seasonal variations in humidity. Pick the
right type of fencing (I don't mean fencing material but the method of
construction)and it will cope with this problem
Paul Mc Cann
Unless you're very careful and use a jig to make sure all the boards are
identical, rounding off the tops is likely to look a right bodge IMO. The idea
of shaping the tops of fencing boards and posts is to shed water and so protect
the end grain from rot damage. It would look much nicer, be more effective and
be a lot simpler to just cut the boards straight across and nail a preserved
chamfered batten along the top edge.
Also, It's much easier and better looking to mark and cut the top edge of fence
boards after they're fixed using a chalk line, especially if the top edge isn't
level. You could even mark out and cut a curve, using a loose line.
I go along with jerrybuilt's suggestion to use feather-edge - much better than
T&G with its grooves that hold moisture.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.