Fascia board - should I replace it?

[AL_z]

Good day all,

I'd appreciate some advice regarding the fascia board on my house's rear extension. It was installed in 1991, by the previous owner, and is rotting at the ends, and the paint is badly flaking off. I have to install some new guttering, so I must decide whether to replace the fascia boards before I start doing the guttering. I plan to do this all single-handed, with only a ladder (no scafolding). The job has to cost as little as possible. However, once it is done, I don't want to have to worry about it again during my lifetime, and I could realistically live about another 20 years. I've never worked on fascias before. It seems a bit daunting, as I don't like heights!

Do you think that replacing them would be worthwhile, or can I ignore a bit of rot at the ends, provided the boards are still sound enough to support the guttering?

One thing that occurred to me is that by using new fascia boards, I would avoid having to strip and repaint the old fascia from up the ladder. If I use new fascia boards, they could be primed and painted at ground level, before installing, yes? And then it's just a matter of prying the old boards off, and nailing the new ones onto the ends of the roof rafters. Is that correct?

Are there any other options I could look into, like fixing some sort of cladding over the old fascia? If I opt for entirely new fascias, what are the options regarding materials? Is timber the only sensible choice, or are there other, maintenance-free materials these days, that don't cost much more?

Thanks for any advice.

Al

[Cicero]

I think that your life expectancy might be considerably less than 20 years if you (single-handed, with only a ladder ) attempt this kind of job in the way that you propose. Levering off a fascia board with a claw hammer or pry bar is likely to cause sudden unexpected movement and if you manage to remove the fascia board its weight could easily topple the ladder or dislodge you from the ladder.

The rot will almost certainly progress further so you might as well do the job properly first time.

Yes, that's all that's entailed provided that you can do it safely!

You can use uPVC over-cladding but it would be best not to use it over existing rot which could travel into the rafters. Plastic fascia boards can be used successfully (after removal of wooden boards) but like any long length of timber they're awkward to handle especially at gutter height.

If you value your life I would suggest getting help either by hiring suitable access gear or by getting a professional to do the job.

Cic.

[Chris J Dixon]

Most of the professional installers make a point of explaining that they align new fixing points for the fascias. What they don't say is that this it almost essential, because the plastic sections are much more flexible than timber, which tends to stay reasonably straight, even with questionable alignment of the fixings.

Indeed.

Chris

[Roger Mills]

As others have said, replacing a whole fascia board - while supported only on a ladder - is not a safe one-man job! Chances are that the bottom row of roof tiles is supported on the fascia board, so you'd need to slide them up out of the way in any event. You also have to be very careful not to damage the felt - which needs to direct water into the gutter, and which may be brittle with age.

I think your best bet is to replace just the rotten bits of board, by cutting the boards to the nearest rafter so that the new bits are properly supported. Then clad the whole thing in L-shaped uPVC cladding

- which should then last for the rest of your life. Cladding is relatively light, and much easier to handle than wooden boards. Also, you don't need to worry about supporting the tiles, except where you've replaced the board. Even so, it's easier with two people - as is gutter erection.

The downside of being light is that it catches the wind - so avoid doing it on a windy day!

[<me9]

I replaced some single handed about 25 years ago using just a ladder. #when I recently re-tried the trick I drilled joles in the old fascia and tied it in place so it wouldn't come down until I lowered it gently using the rope.

After removing the old, and seeing the extent of the rot I then hired scaffolding to complete the remedial work and refinish the job.

They're worse than timber as they're more bendy. I wouldn't over-clad, it's sealing in the rot!

Fix the causes of the rot (usually ponding on sarking felt is the first stage

-- ensure any replacement is supported and is to a fall) before thinking of anything else. UPVC isn't too expensive after you've added one repaint to the cost of timber.

I found scaffolding wasn't too expensive (cheaper than hiring a tower for a couple of weeks) and gives a stable platform to enable inspection and remediation to be done well, rathr than a botched job from a ladder.The time saved in not having to move the ladder is immense. Go for it.

[AL_z]

Roger Mills wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Ah, now I'm beginning to understand why it could be awkward from a ladder!

This sounds like a desirable solution. Thank you for that. I like the sound of the UPVC. About 99% of the existing timber fascia looks like sound wood, despite the rotting ends and peeling paint.

Can anyone recommend a source for this UPVC fascia cladding?

Al

[AL_z]

Cicero wrote in news:8mpho.108953$ee6.97719 @newsfe28.ams2:

Thanks for the reply. 99% of the existing fascia looks sound. it's only the very ends that have a little rot (as far as I can tell from ground level) so the cladding idea sounds appealing.

Al

[Weatherlawyer]

If it is only a touch of rot, look for any causes as has been suggested then just give it a slap of preservative. That should last a few years. In that time yoy might drop on a neighbour with a tower or scaffold, or some other saving may crop up.

You don't need to go spending silly money until it is really necessary.

[Harry Bloomfield]

Cicero was thinking very hard :

More awkward single handed, but it can still be done quite safely if the existing fascia is roped up so it cannot suddenly fall. It will of course be much slower without help and a second ladder, but not impossible given care.

[Harry Bloomfield]

AL_z explained on 07/09/2010 :

Yes, pretty much, but use plastic gutters, facias and perhaps soffits (the bit that closes the gap back to the wall). All fit and forget, if done properly.

Don't clad over the old, you are just storing up problems for the future.

I (with some help and 2x ladders) did the facias, soffits, gutters and fall pipes at the front and back of our semi in a fairly easy weekend.

2/3rds of the time was spent on the first side, learning how best to do it. Cost about £300 from memory for all the bits.

[Roger Mills]

There are on-line suppliers - but every good industrial estate should have a place that sells it - along with guttering and drainpipe and, often, conservatory components.

There's one near me called "Direct Roofing Products" - but you should find similar ones near you if you look in Yellow Pages under Fascias and Soffits or somesuch.

[Dave Liquorice]

Wait until you get up there... or better still get up there and have a proper look. Single handed from a ladder by some one who doesn't like heights sounds like an accident waiting to happen to me.

Unless you find the reason for the rot ie where the damp is coming from that doesn't dry out, you'll just be covering up rotting timber in a year or so's time that may spread into the rafters... If you want to go plastic (lower maintenace) replace the timber with plastic totally.

[Harry Bloomfield]

Looks can be very deceiving, especially when covered with paint. You need to get up there with a sharp pointed object (small screwdriver) to see how bad it really is. Rot can spread much further into the wood, than the actual rotten part would suggest.

Plumbcenter sell it, there is bound to be one not too far away - or try typing into a search engine facia + gutter + soffit, there are plenty of online sources.

I had not thought of the tiles being supported by the woodwork. Something to check out BEFORE you even think of starting replacement.