120mm axial fan and it would have been illegal at Heathrow at night, but it did heat the room more quickly. It was set up to blow downwards so that the warm air circulated rather than just rose. Disadvantage: it was in the room with the stat., so the rest of the house was cooler due to the stat. cutting out sooner.
I haven't tried them - but their claims about energy saving are complete b___s__t! They may well increase the effective output of a radiator - provided the boiler and pump can keep up - but you don't get owt for nowt, so they don't change the energy required to maintain a given room temperature.
If it's not for continuous use, how about replacing the light with a combined heat and light unit - the sort which uses a circular radiant element in a glass tube?
Thanks for the pointers on this one ... I agree about the savings absolute 'pile of pants' ... but I am interested in been able to heat the room quicker and 'fuller' so I may have a go at the PC fan idea ... maybe fit them at the bottom of the Radiator to blow upwards?
Ash
The actual unit wouldn't be in the bathroom. And in any case it's so big it would be a long way from the 'dangerous zone.
I've already got a large SS one. Which ceases being a rad when covered with towels. ;-)
Nice idea - but I couldn't get the pipes to there without wrecking the floor. I'm restricted to either a surface mount something close to the towel rail so I can use those pipes, or the opposite wall to that which adjoins a toilet which has a rad and I could pick up the feeds from there. But whatever option has to look good as the bathroom is drop dead gorgeous. ;-)
Shudder. ;-)
I'll suggest something then.
Rip out the wall in te toilet, assuimg its sutd, and lay a lattice of
10mm or 15mm copper pipes IN the wall- I assume its tiled nicely, bathroom side -and have a warm wall radiator.Friend had a refurb done ion house, CH pipes ran under bathroom floor. Instant UFH! the rad is hardly needed.,
Everyone thinks they 'need a radiator' in reality these are just small volume heat exchangers .Fan convectors are even smaller heat exchangers. Why not use a wall as a large and lower efficiency one? the efficiency doesn't matter as all the heat ends up in the rooms - its just a lot of pipework instead of a neat unit.
^^^^ ignore that. Its a negligible effect, buty dynamo Dave doesn't do sums, so he cant really tell.
Bathroom might need IPx4 rating depending on zone. As you know zones do not apply under the bath - however beware where the intake is w.r.t. the fan.
Radiant electric towel rail.
- Panel with perforations and single towel rail loop
- IPx4, 750-1500W, Dimplex for one
- Radiant avoids heat going out of the extractor vents
- Heats objects directly rather than creating draughts
Wall mounted downflow fan.
- Small fan, not too bad for noise
- IPx4, 2000W, Dimplex & Creda
- Pullcord, pullcord & runback timer, thermostat operation
Of those the downflow fan heater is cheap - =A340, the radiant heaters pricey =A3200 (like Calidou). Dimplex Calidou are radiant and I think IPx4 rated, a visually interesting design.
Cost of running such even for 1hr a day is insignificant - =A320 over
100 days.
Smiths Hydronic Low Voltage Award SFR7 12V Transformer supplied with SELV model. Must be fitted remote from the bathroom/high humidity area =95 Unit must be earthed (not 12 volt SELV)
Owain
ISTR they have a range of bolt-on grilles including chrome and brushed steel.
Isolation xfr? Only needs to run the fan. Or scrounge a nice 24V fan (geoff?!)
Right - I'll check on that.
The guts of the thing would be in a cupboard in another room so only accessible from the bathroom if dismantled.
Then have a table fan directed at the radiator until the rad is fitted.
They have a 12v version for bathrooms.
Have grill top and bottom into the bathroom and the hollow in the wall then acts a convector heater. Insulate inside stud well. Use finned copper tube at the bottom on the stud void just above the lower grill. A fan or two, could be put in there to blow downwards to blow air across the floor. Leave an access panel for maintenance.
Just fit an RCBO in the CU.
e there any very nice looking and small ones available? It would have to
These are 12V as standard, btw.
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