facias

[Neil]

I have just been let down by the facia company who where going to put fascias on our new extension and garage. I am going to attempt it myself as the roofer is booked next week. Can anyone give me a few tips about thickness of facia to use and how to put it up. The facia will be 15 metre long. The rafters are cut level with brickwork which will make me have to cut the soffitt lip of in places and leave it on in others to accept a 2 foot soffitt. It is all single storey. Also how do I attach the facia to brickwork on the gable ends of the garage. Any help is much appreciated. I have two local suppliers roplas and eurocell to choose from. Many thanks. Neil

[Rick]

Don't you put the facias on after the roof, anyways thats the way I am doing it.

The best way to do it, is when the roof is on, and the scaffold is still there.

Or am I doing it arse-about-face ?

Rick

[Neil]

[Rick]

Out of interest, what happens when a slate slides down the roof, and lands on the brand new gutter ? How do you get the bobbom battons off, then the new facia have been fastend to them ?

Anyways the size of the facia boards depends on wahter you are ripping the existing off, or overcladding. If removing the existing, you need the this (15mm ish) boards, if overcladding 5mm.

look here

to see the large number of choices you are about to have to make.

Rick

Rick

[Neil]

Cheers Rick, I guess he must be a carefull worker. It would be interesting to know if any one else has a view on the best way. Tile first or facia first. I am just been guided by the roofer. I will have a look at the site you suggested. Neil

[Stuart Holmes]

My tiler reckons he's been doing it for over 20 years....still managed to F*** up my bathroom. Any experience a tradesman tell you he has has to be taken with a pinch of salt.

Shit I'm pissed off, could of done it better myself and saved a packet. (OK it would have taken twice as long, but thats what happens when you take care over something)

[Peter Taylor]

Neil, I wouldn't cut the lip off the PVC if I was you. After doing exactly that on my garage the cut edge looks rough and the PVC is not flat. If I was doing it again I would fix two rows of roof battens horizontally on the cut ends of the rafters to give a solid continuous fixing for the PVC and make the space for the lip underneath. It looks soooo much better!

On the gable ends, if you haven't got any timbers in the wall to fix the barge boards to, then I would do the same - two rows of battens.

BTW, your roofer is correct. The fascia HAS to be fitted before the roof tiles otherwise there's nothing for him to rest the bottom row of tiles on. Also, if you have time to do it, it's a great idea (if you're not using eaves ventilators) to provide a thin sheet, say 3mm ply, laid on top of the facia and fixed to the rafters to support the underfelt over the gap. This keeps it from sagging and collecting water behind the fascia.

Peter

[Rick]

If the UPVC is too wide, don't you cut the top of it, the bit that will be hidden by the tiles ?

Is that not what the "kicker" is for, the bottom batton is right on the bottom end of the rafters, and its twice as thick.

Maybe the guy what taught me went to a different school to yours. Mine learnt from his dad & grandad etc .......

Rick

[Peter Taylor]

Yes, but I don't mean the height. We ARE discussing PVC fascias, right? I'm talking about the short leg of the L section at the bottom of the fascia which supports the soffit board, or which goes against the brickwork if there's no soffit. Neil said he was going to cut that off and I said it's not a good idea.

There's always more than one way to kill a cat and this might be a regional thing. For me it's normal to nail individual triangular sprockets at the foot of each each rafter, sometimes with a continuous board on top to support the felt, as I mentioned before. The bottom edge of the eaves tiles rests on the top edge of the fascia board, which is what Neil's roofer is asking for.

Your way is better in some respects, but if you use a plain square section of timber for the kicker it would raise the bottom edge of the eaves tiles too high and cause the underfelt to sag and collect water. You'd need to chamfer the kicker. I think we probably need a drawing of this to discuss it properly!! :o)

Peter

[Neil]

Thanks for all the help. I am going to put a 4 inch x 1 inch batten full length of rafters to save cutting the facia lips. I only wish I had left rafters longer to start, but the original facia guy who let me down said to cut them flush. Can any one see a problem putting the battens in? Neil