Estimated cost of new upstairs floor?

[MikeS]

Seriosly how do they get the plaster on the hawk if they up up to 30 inches higher than the floor.

MikeS

[Richard Blackwood]

2 of the doors open into the slope i.e there is more of a gap under the doors when they are fully open than when they are shut. The 3rd door opens at a right angle to the other two.

[Stefek Zaba]

By putting th'bucket up to 30 inches higher than the floor. Patented bucket-raising devices with a fetching "I'm A Spread With LOADSAMONEY" logo are available for 99.99 at Jewsons - 299.99 if you want the gold-plated variety. Spreads who haven't reached that state of bling-bling make do with everyday objects to bring t'bucket oop off t'flooer, such as the exotic "table", "chair", or - if we're really down-at-heel - "milk crate".

The guy doing our ceilings using his strap-on manhood extenders (I mean plasterer's stilts, of course) didn't need to get nearly so high as 30 inches, mind - yer typical domestic ceiling is, what, 2.3m above t'flooer, and comfortable working height where your head isn't bumping the ceiling is maybe 30-40cm above t'flooer, meaning not much more than a fooot.

Stefek

[Mark]

Umm raise the spot board by 31 ins perhaps But I see someone has already covered this. :-)

Personally I cant use them, I have enough trouble standing on my own twofeet looking up, without the added complication of wooden legs.

[Andy Hall]

".

Those things have always struck me as bloody dangerous.

You strap these stilts to your leg and then climb up. Presumably if you fall off, it's instant broken leg?

[N. Thornton]

I'm puzzled, as I cant think of any possible need for a plasterer. You lift the floorboards, cut and fit 2x4 to the joists to level them, and refit the boards. Number the boards and they can go back in the same places without any cutting. Shouldnt need a skip either.

NT

[Rob Morley]

in2minds had to replace rotten joists, and therefore the ceiling below as well.

[Richard Blackwood]

But if the joists in my house are ok then a carpenter could do as NT says? - add a strip of wood to the lower side to raise it, progressively adding thinner strips as you come away from the lower part of the room as the room levels off, relay floorboards, which seemed mostly ok before I put new carpet down (damn), if necessary replacing the skirting boards with new ones?

Would replacing the skirting boards necessitate any replastering?

Have I got the gist of NT's post and am I right in thinking that this is the /best/ case scenario? Otherwise it sounds like I'm in a lot of shit.

[in2minds]

best thing you can do now is pull up a couple of floor boards, take a look at the condition and possible cause and report back...

when I started (before I lifted the floor boards) I was expecting to lap new joists to the old, coach bolts with star washers between, to level the floor and strengthen the old joists in the process... how optimistic was I ? (c;

LJ

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Normal way would be with firring strips - tapered wood which goes from one end of the joist to the other. They're normally made off site as cutting them isn't easy without the correct machine.

Both the floorboards and skirting could be re-used with care.

[N. Thornton]

the top side of the existing joists.

you'd lay one strip on each joist, the strip would be tapered to give a level top surface. Establish a level using a laser, temporarily clamp the 2x4 to the existing joist, exactly level, and run a pencil line along top of old joist to mark the 2x4. Cut the 2x4 along the line and it will fit on perfectly. Bench mounted circ saw. It is also possible to use wood a bit bigger and not cut it, but just screw it to the side of the old joists, either works.

no, as your new skirting will be higher up or same level. If you want to make the job bigger by using new skirting, pick something as big as the present stuff to avoid plaster work.

I dont remember any reason to think your joists are rotten: is there such a reason? Having a look will tell for sure.

NT

[Richard Blackwood]

Yes, sorry. I shouldve been clearer, I mean the side of the house which is lower is where the strip of wood would go to increase its height.

Some electricians did take up a length of floorboards when doing some work before I moved in and they didnt mention anything about rotten joists or anything. The surveyor (and I'm having increasingly less faith in them) found no signs of damp in the house, so I am a little more optimistic about that.

[N. Thornton]

your new wood strips will cover the whole of the area, but will taper down to nothing at one end or side. You realise each existing joist will be bent a little, so the strip you cut to go onto it will not quite be straight, but have a slightly curved cut. Hence you need to use the pencil against joist method, not just draw a straight line.

If youre clear about that then it sounds to me like youve got it all figured out. Good luck.

NT