If it proves too difficult to unsolder, then clip the old component off and solder the new one to the remaining lead stubs of the old. Not elegant, but sometimes pragmatic.
That works if you can get enough heat into the board to actually reflow the joint.
Indeed - but you can bet what you are trying to reflow is lead free.
Three or four. Enough to take *sensible* precautions.
Is that per month or year?
If you are in the industry you would know that you can either wick the excess solder up with flux coated braid (coax exterior at a pinch) or better use a solder sucker. Even the tat that Maplin sell would do it and be much safer than drilling out which risks permanent damage.
You will need a powerful soldering iron and a steady hand since the modern multilayer board power planes act as very effective heat sinks!
The rubbishy soldering irons that Adli/Lidl sell will probably just about hack it at minimal cost (and some risk of mains leakage damage).
Its counterproductive to clear the holes. Keep them full, apply heat, component lead sinks in nicely. Its strange to see people making a pain in the ass job for themselves that simply doesn't need doing.
I certainly wouldnt use a drill, its a recipe for breakage of internal copper connections.
NT
In through-hole plated boards (multi-layer), you risk pushing out the through-hole plating, which particularly with capacitors of this type, are often also links between layers, which will get broken. (That's a risk when you desolder and remove the component too.)
+100 ;-)
fine, if it has one leg, but impossible if it has many more which all have to be inserted at once.
I use braid and suckers I have one of these too
and a hot air blower specifically used for surface mount devices.
Surprised no one's suggested an angle grinder.
+1 The power/ground planes _do_ make very effective heatsinks. A nuisance when it comes to desoldering capacitors but put to good use as a heatsink for the switching transistors and other bits of silicon glue with modest heatsinking requirements.
I get by with a 25W Antex and a plunger type solder sucking tool. It needs a lot of skill to effectively recap a MoBo using these tools though. My success with the most recent re-capping exercise suggests I'm getting more skillful with each job (I've only been doing these re-capping jobs for the last decade)[1].
I'd prefer a 35W Antex for this job (or a 70W for the less efficient soldering iron designs where the bit is inserted _into_ the end of the heating element holder rather than the more elegant bit that pushes over the heating element tube) but when I last shopped for one, the
25W was the best I could do.I've never come across a job so difficult as to suggest ripping the can off the wires to allow the replacement to be soldered to the wire stubs. In any case, most times this would simply be impractical due to restricted access.
The closest to this scenario would be ripping the can off in order to gain better access to the remains of the wires in order to unsolder them and remove the solder from the pin through holes to allow the replacement to be soldered into place as per the original build.
All I can say, for this sort of repair is, "Thank Deity for solder resist!". :-)
[1] One might question the benefit of repairing a 2 or 3 year old MoBo over a simple replacement. The answer is quite simple enough when you realise that a change of MoBo (usually using a later more powerful design with a new processor and ram to take advantage of the opportunity for an unplanned upgrade at little more than the cost of a direct replacement) will often involve an hour or two's extra work to get windows up and running again on the replacement hardware, an extra cost the customer could well do without facing when they were quite happy enough with the performance of the system before it all went t*ts up.It's the behaviour of windows that makes the choice of repair over replace the more effective choice in most cases. If it weren't for this 'annoyance' feature, I'd have done far less re-capping jobs and a lot more replace/upgrade ones instead.
It's quite clear from this statement that you've never had to face the practicalities of actually re-capping a motherboard. Yes, I've used the technique you've suggested on occasion but only on a sparsely populated board where it has been possible to see where the wires come into alignment with the holes. In most cases, this just isn't possible and it is difficult enough already to get the wires to go into the holes even after they've been cleared of solder.
That's something to be avoided if at all possible. Sometimes there's just no other way. However, with care and an undersized drill, the damage can be kept to kept to a minimum if not altogether avoided. The softness of the solder reduces the risk of damage to the much harder through plated holes so the risk isn't quite as bad as you might think. Even so, resorting to a drill should be considered as a _last_ resort and only undertaken with considerable care.
Yup, I have all of those too (the Rapid one is the same as mine)
Just once I managed to destroy through hole plating, and it was a devil to fix. I tend to avoid trying to clear holes unless I really have to.
And if the solder isn't melted all the way through the hole, it often takes very little to push the track off the other side.
Well if you want to get the DIY tools out, try the hot air paint stripper. (sometimes just used to preheat the board to get it into the range where a iron can do it)
In article , charles writes
You can 'walk' in a 2 legged comp like a cap though (legs cut to say
10mm) and the technique has value when there are landless connections to power planes. For regular pads or thermally relieved power plane connections, a solder sucker will clear clean, fresh solder from a hole pretty easily. For beginners, it's worth advising of the risk of recoil from the spring action on the sucker that can bounce the nozzle off a heat softened pad, causing damage.
Its only a risk if you apply force. No force is used when inserting leads into solder filled vias, applying force is simply not workable.
NT
You can walk in an 8 legger. For a 2 legger you just melt both at once and in it goes.
NT
What cobblers. Sorry but really.
NT
If it isnt melted, dont push it!
It's when you melt it, start pushing the wire in, and the other end solidifies while you're doing it!
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