Electricity : Plug Sockets Not Working !!

Hi

I'm a bit of a novice so bare with me and I apologise in advance.

Basically I have just moved house and in my basement I have 2 room both with plug sockets in each. Although they both used to work fin all of a sudden in one of the rooms both of the plug sockets hav stopped working for some reason but the other room is fine.

All the other sockets in the house work so I am not sure what ha happened.

I looked at my electricity box in the garage as I presumed it shoul just be a fuse, but tried to pull out the various switches for th different parts of the house but they dont seem to come out and i kinder looks like they not supposed too, which is strange.

It doesn't look like the normal fuse boxes I have seen in the past a all of the ones I have seen before have fuses you can pull out an change for each part of the house maybe its a bit newer than the ones am used to seeing.

I have also checked the actual plug sockets and they look like they ar connected up OK.

Anyway any advice would be much appreciated as I didn't really want t call someone out just for these plugs.

Thanks guys.

Le

-- hamertime

Reply to
hamertime
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hamertime wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@diybanter.com:

Just to be sociable, and in case it helps, and you're not pulling my plonker.

These fuses are prolly! miniature contact breakers, and each one has a switch built in.

If they've been overloaded the contact breaks and the switch jumps to the down position.

To reset it, push the switch to the up position.

If your fuses have no switches on the front, or if you can't see one thats out of position (down), I give up

mike

Reply to
mike ring

Does your fuse box (or Consumer Unit (CU) as it ought to be called) look like it contains any of these:

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even:

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It doesn't look like the normal fuse boxes I have seen in the past as

If it is a reasonably modern setup you would expect a nice row of circuit breakers and not fuses. The position of the switches on them will tell you if any have tripped.

First thing is to find out if any circuits are tripped. If they are all apparently still on, then there are a number of possible reasons for the problem you are seeing, however check the circuit breakers first and post back again for the next steps if that does not fix it.

Reply to
John Rumm

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Nice bit of kit - to use where the Prospective fault current exceeds the breaking limit of MCBs.

Reply to
Ed Sirett

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or use commercial/industrial breakers. On a couple of occasions when I've replaced CU's in homes, I've used MEM Memshield2 (or whatever Eaton now call it) as it's just such a joy to work with something of that quality compared with the usual domestic CU's. The MCB's for these are all 10kA breaking too, although that was not my reason for using them.

Also, if you check manufacturers data sheets, you will sometimes find their lower rated MCBs are upped to 10kA when backed with a 100A BS1361 fuse as commonly used in main cutouts.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

They actually have an overlapping 6kA breaking range as well under the memshield2 brand - although it only covers the lower range of values upto about 32 or 40A (a letter suffix of the part number dictates the actual range IIRC).

You are right about the CUs though - nicely put together and having the DIN rail clip the other side of the MCB from usually (i.e. on the circuit side and not the busbar side) makes for simpler fitting and removal in a big distribution board.

Reply to
John Rumm

Quite handy when you want working discrimination between head end of a submain and a downstream MCB but can't afford the have the two steps in trip rating that would be required to achieve it reliably with cascaded MCBs as well.

Reply to
John Rumm

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