Electric plane use

[terry.shitcrumbs]

Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing a down ward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment to the bla de depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate is flat to the w orkpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch electric planer, cuttin g depth adjustment alters the position of the front section of the base pla te, only. This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the relative dist ance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the rear base pla te section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the workpiece, at th e same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a meal of t his and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

[harryagain]

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment alters the position of the front section of the base plate, only. This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the workpiece, at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

With all planes, it is the users technique. As the plane nears the end of the stroke, slow down and transferr weight from the front to the back of the plane. ie don't press down on the front knob. This stops it dropping as the front adjustable foot runs off the end of the wood.

[meow2222]

wnward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment to the b lade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutt ing depth adjustment alters the position of the front section of the base p late, only. This means that with the front section of the base plate flat t o the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the relative di stance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the rear base p late section is dragged on board.

the same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid the problem?

Downward force should be behind the cutter at all times except when startin g the cut, when it needs to be on the front plate. During the latter it is easier to misalign it. Do that and all should be well.

NT

[stuart noble]

All has never been well for me. I hate bloody planers

[ss]

As with previous posters..ease off the pressure at the end of the run. The only difference between a manual plane and electric is it runs faster and exaggerates it so more control is required for the electric plane. It took me a bit to get used to it, it wasnt so bad with a manual as it was only one stroke at a time. Once you know the reason its quite easy to control.

[John Rumm]

You need to remember to transfer the weight from the front plate to the rear as the cut is made. You start the cut with the front plate pushed flush to the wood. The cutter will cut below the level, and the back plate shout match that perfectly. Before you get to the other end you need the weight on the back to make sure you are indexing from the recently planed surface and not the unplaned surface that is about to vanish.

[newshound]

Scrap wood at the ends is not a bad idea either.

[F Murtz]

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just have to get used to the planes characteristics.

[fred]

On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 3:34:22 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote: snip

No. I can think of no way easy adjustments that could be made to the cut depth following this procedure. The adjustable front foot is used to simulate adjusting the depth of cut on a hand plane made by amending the projection of the blade out of the sole.

As others have suggested ease up on the pressure at the front when finishing the stroke. Lots of practice will make this automatic.

Of course, depending on the overall finishrequired, he could always try attacking from either end alternately.

[Tim Lamb]

Yes.

My ancient Wolf plane comes with a jig to set the cutters level with the base after sharpening.

[fred]

In article , Tim Lamb writes

Wish I had one for my equally ancient B&D, the blade adjustment is very tricky and you need to be careful not to overloosen the drum screws when changing the blades or it all needs re-set again.

For the o/p, on mine, there are allen screws holding the blade clamps (3 for each). Loosening these a tad lets you change the blade by siding out but loosening them further allows the blade clamp to float about such that it can be adjusted. As I said, this is a tricky procedure and one I have avoided since I had to re-set them after accidentally loosening them off too much.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , fred writes

Somebody clearly thought about this. Each blade has an adjustable flanged bracket which fits a slot on the drum. The jig has a plastic shoulder to reference the blade edge and you simply hold the flange tightly against the back of the jig while tightening the clamp screws. The distance between the new edge and the flange is thus kept the same.

I suppose you could pretend you were adjusting a planer thicknesser: set the depth control to be the same as the shoe. Hold the planer upside down in a vice and use a straight piece of wood resting along the shoe to test if rotating the drum moves the wood.

[F Murtz]

No it is not easy but can be done by changing the depth of the cutters in the drum but no one ever does it because it would an extreme nuisance. but it would be the only way to make it like an ordinary plane

The adjustable front foot is used to simulate adjusting the depth of cut on a hand plane made by amending the projection of the blade out of the sole.

[fred]

t depth following this procedure.

shing the stroke. Lots of practice will make this automatic.

y attacking from either end alternately.

Yes but to go through that procedure, and setting machine plane blades is a real p.i.t.a., every time you wished to alter the cut depth ( you will wan t to take a final light pass, no ?) would be extremely tedious and I'm not convinced it would solve the o.p.'s problem. Incorrect use of a hand plane will give the same problem. I think practice practice practice is the best answer.

[fred]

There are lots of gadgets to help set plane blades. Some as simple as a magnet. Checking that the slip of wood as you describe moves the same distance with every blade is simple and effective.

[fred]

In article , Tim Lamb writes

Thanks for the tips, I shall try that next time. Not a big concern ATM as I tend to use it in a quick and dirty semi bulk removal tool.