most elec hobs are hard wired to HD cooker switches not plugs so if one wanted an elec hob in, say, a wheeled island unit feature, how/with what would one wire it so it's "unpluggable" if the island were to be moved around?
is it even allowed?
Jim K
SY or YY cable. And a 32A socket and plug!
On Sunday, 23 February 2014 12:11:07 UTC, snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk wrote :
aha!
...goggles...
mmm bulkyyyy... anything neater? mainly the socket would be a pain, i envis aged the socket being floor mounted under the usual position of the island (to avoid trip hazard etc), when unplugged & the island out of the way, the bulky floor mounted socket things I've seen would look shit & be a mega tr ip hazard...
any "flush when closed/out of use" options for the socket?
tia
Jim K
I have this weird mental image of a hob built into an old fashioned bumper car as we used to see in fairgrounds, taking its supply from a metal floor and a mesh above head height.. chuckle. Brian
No reason why you shouldn't split the hob into two (or more) circuits and use two (or more) 13 amp supplies?
We used to have a Philips hob of uncertain provenance which had the option to be wired like this, two rings on each of the 15A supplies. It was supplied with the separate inputs commoned with hefty copper links - but I guess if it was made like that there must have been a market where it was needed?
In some other EU countries, they have to be supplied from multiple phases, as you can't draw enough current on one phase. You can't use this feature to attach two supply leads, as the circuits are not isolated from each other.
Use a BS4343/IEC 309 connector recessed below the floor, with a small trap door for access. They are commonly used in commercial kitchens.
:) It certainly would be different. With it only being practical to get 2 connections that way, one moment of good live bad neutral & you'd be in trouble. Double insulated doesnt quite cut it when you've got water sloshing around.
Anyone else used those abominable live wire element hobs? Just a ceramic tray with a bare wire element in it.
Overhead sockets aren't out of the question if the aesthetic can be made ok - but that's a challenge.
NT
I have one, a Mysto Fire. Google used to be able to find a picture of it, but it can't anymore.
My dad used it when he was a student or in digs for his first job.
It may have belonged to his parents.
I fired it up a few times for amusement - still works fine. Would have trouble with the IP2X test on a PAT test ;-)
It was once (may still be) possible to buy replacement coiled elements for radiant fires. You simply removed the failed one, used a piece of string to measure the length and stretched the new one to suit.
My dad told me that in his college days (1930s) they heated a room by simply suspending such an element from the mantelpiece.
Chris
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