electric fan oven: installation, power supply

I need to get a new built-in electric fan oven. Our current one is around the standard single oven size, and is plugged in with a normal

13 A plug and socket. (It's least 20 years old, probably quite a bit older, and some years ago a repairman told me parts were no longer available. Oh, and it just stopped working.)

I am having trouble determining, from the information on manufacturers' & retailers' websites, which fan ovens require a dedicated power supply & which ones can be plugged in. I'm willing to have a special supply run if necessary, but obviously it's a disadvantage to models that require it. Do they all require that now?

Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove and replace one of these, provided the new one is about the same size as the old one?

Reply to
Adam Funk
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In a lot of cases one can simply use similar parts for another make/ model

If its justa single oven cavity, no hob, it'll run on a plug. Cookers with hobs wont (normally).

Open oven door, remove the few retaining screws, and pull the thing out. Very easy.

If it were mine I'd check it with a multimeter to see which part had failed.

NT

Reply to
NT

I agree that's normally the case, but I wouldn't guarantee it. Furthermore, manufacturer's published specs don't necessarily include the info.

I was in the same position as the OP some time ago, did the research and bought what I thought was a suitable replacement from Curry's - wasn't until I#d got it home and unpacked it that I found "no plug" and had to return it.

Yep. My old mum could do it if she was strong enough.

Reply to
Lobster

Its a legal requirement to put the max power consumption on the ratings plate. I'd be surprised if a normal sized single cavity oven took more than 3.1kW.

What was its power rating?

NT

Reply to
NT

As a rough rule of thumb, single ovens will usually run from a socket, and double ones usually need a dedicated supply.

(look at the power rating Also, how difficult is it (apart from the electrical supply) to remove

Usually pretty straight forward - couple of screws hold it in place, and then it slides out.

Reply to
John Rumm

I saw some John Lewis own-brand ones that were specifically labelled as requiring a 15 or 20 A supply. The others in the shop weren't labelled at all & I didn't have time to ask. I guess I'll have to ask in the shops or call the manufacturers.

TBH, there are some other problems with this old oven (door hinges are cranky; buttons have fallen off so it's hard to set the clock; etc.) so I'm willing to retire it.

Reply to
Adam Funk

Though even then, if wiring up a kitchen I'd put in a dedicated spur for it, not have it pulling load from the same circuit as the washer, tumble drier, toaster, kettle, fridge, freezer, etc.

(Experience of my brother's house always going POP in the middle of cooking when more than two other appliances were also on.)

JGH

Reply to
jgharston

very quickly and then they cycle the power. A cold water only washing machine doing a boil wash would be better off on it's own supply than the oven.

Of course it is all bollocks as the ring final circuit works just fine in the real world.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Reply to
Adam Funk

Well it is quite simple really...

2.85 is getting close to the limit for a socketed connection, however it is still just inside (assuming that quoted 2.85kW at 240V). In reality because its a quite diverse load, the average current will be well below the 12.4A that the numbers would suggest.

Well its not quite true, although it may be preferable. Depends a bit on what else is on the circuit the oven would otherwise be plugged into.

There is obviously no harm in running from a dedicated circuit, and when wiring a cooker point (without an integral socket), its often quite handy to make the switch control not only a cooker flex outlet, but also a socket in the oven enclosure.

Reply to
John Rumm

It is. A load of under 13A intermittent, which ovens are, is fine on a plug.

exactly

and what type of circuit protection is being used. A 30A circuit can be run at over 45A at times, on the last one I saw run like this nothing got hot, and the fuse didn't mind, as it was intermittent high current.

the harm is financial.

NT

Reply to
NT

How would you do it in your house?

Oh, I guess that might be the answer. ;-)

Reply to
Adam Funk

Yup, that is a good point... If you have wired the kitchen as a bunch of

20A radials, then its probably best to shift loads like that off them if you can.

Indeed. You want a design that will not routinely run for long periods at a low overload, but even quite high overloads for short periods are ok.

With (domestic) kitchens you only really need count the the big loads that have a reasonable duration... so the tumble driver, washer, dishwasher etc, but not the kettle or toaster etc

There is some argument that having a nice big red switch close to the cooking appliances to knock the hob and oven off in one easy hit is handy for you notice flames pouring our of your roast spuds ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

I would stick in a 32A MCB, and a 6mm^2 T&E cable run to a cooker point (just a switch type), then appropriate flex outlets near where you would expect connection to oven a hob to be made. That will cope with anything up to about 15kW of potential cooking appliances!

Reply to
John Rumm

I have a 10mm T&E to a cooker switch with a socket outlet and the output of the cooker switch supplies the power for the sparker/ignition on my gas hob.

I am a big fan of cooker switches with socket outlets.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

That does not sould right.

Feel free to post the link.

I expect a 20A radial would do the job.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Terms such as "cooker socket" suggest the retailer is talking testicles.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Here's the source for that; it has rather different European specifications:

This appliance is supplied without a main plug and a main cable. Applicable types of cables for Europe: ? Minimum size Cable/flex: 1,5mm2 ? Cable/ flex type: H07 RN-F, H05 RN-F, H05 RRF, H05 VV-F, H05 V2V2-F (T90), H05 BB-F ? Fuse 13 A

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>>> but then a retailer's website says for the same model "Requires

And here's the source for the round-objects content:

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Reply to
Adam Funk

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"cooker point connection" is at the end of the "Product information" section, and the 2.85 kW is at the end of the "Key Features" list.

Reply to
Adam Funk

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are the rules you have to follow.

Applicable types of cables for Europe: . Minimum size Cable/flex: 1,5mm² . Cable/ flex type: H07 RN-F, H05 RN-F, H05 RRF, H05 VV-F, H05 V2V2-F (T90), H05 BB-F . Fuse 13 A

It's a plug in oven

Reply to
ARWadsworth

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