elecs- how to fix consumer unit etc to wall?

[George (dicegeorge)]

How can I best fix the consumer units and fuse boxes in my old house to the wall?

There's an internal brick wall, then some crumbly plaster which some are screwed into that with rawl plugs, some are screwed onto wooden boards, some onto chipboard.

The ones fixed into the crumbly plaster I may extend into brick.

I'm going to remove all the plaster, maybe paint the bricks to stop dust, then perhaps wood and then fuseboxes.

But wood is flammable!

If I tried to attach the fuseboxes directly to the wall then maybe some holes would line up with the crumbly lime mortar, so something else is needed.

There's no need for insulation as it's an inside wall.

[Tim S]

George (dicegeorge) coughed up some electrons that declared:

Ply is fine. In fact it makes a lot of sense - gives you something easy to put the cable clips into.It was considered a problem in the days of antique equipment with open backs, but not anymore. I'm making a floor-ceiling wiring cupboard for my CU and the entire back will be sheet ply.

Assuming you aren't planning to refit antique fusegear with an open back ;->

Cheers

Tim

[ARWadworth]

That never stops electric companies mounting the cutout/main fuse on wood!

A large sheet of chipboard should do the trick.

Adam

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd not use chipboard unless in a totally dry place. Plywood is much better - and for such a small amount the cost shouldn't matter.

[George (dicegeorge)]

as you say its only a small amount so what is 'best practice'

What kind of plywood, one inch thick?

What about using old floorboards, that'd look good?

I hate chipboard because it cant cope with wetness, and it burns poisonous at the end of its life thus is a landfill waste and probably poisonous to worms with that glue

[g]

[Tim S]

George (dicegeorge) coughed up some electrons that declared:

Just as thick as you need for clip nails and screws. 1/2" would probably be the minimum useful thickness. It'll be screwed to the wall, so it doesn;t have to be structural.

Don't see why not, but it'll be best if the sit flush with each other, no steps.

Cheers

Tim

[Ian]

I hope you are joking?

Oh Christ, if you can't even do something that simple, get someone to wire it for you.

[Colin Wilson]

Meter boards have some sort of flame retardant treatment.

[George (dicegeorge)]

meter board of treated soft wood at least 3/4 inch thick securely fastened with a minimum space of 1inch between the back of the board and the wall..

but they're americans...

it doesnt say what 'treated' means - does that mean pained with Cuprinol?

[George (dicegeorge)]

I could use chipboard but I want something better. Then it will be ready for a power company to install new fuses and a meter

i'd upload a photo of the crumbling plaster but my ftp aint working tonight!

[g]

[George (dicegeorge)]

Re: elecs- how to fix consumer unit etc to wall?

plaster sandwich... with currants?

[Joker7]

To restore balance to the world George (dicegeorge) wrote in gabi0f$11g9$ [e-mail]

This is a joke ? as it's lost on me.

Chris

[Joker7]

baton (2x1) on the was fixed with plugs and screw then screw the ply to the batons.

Chris

[George (dicegeorge)]

why the battons? why not screw the ply directly to the brick wall?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

You normally bring out the cables behind it.

[George (dicegeorge)]

aha - i think the old fuseboxes may have wires coming out the back, but new consumer units have them coming out the sides..

So its not an airgap for ventilation or heat dissipation..

I want them as close to the wall as possible cos there's a door opening towards them, and i want to be able to get my wheelbarrow in and out.

[g]

[Dave Plowman (News)]

All the ones I've seen have the option.

No - although ventilation is a good idea with any wood especially if its in a less than dry place.

That's a novel reason. ;-) Make sure you put some form of door stop in to prevent damage to the CU.

[meow2222]

If you're having a utility company hook it up it'll need to be to proper spec, as will the installation connected to it. The purpose of the board is to insulate the CU from conducted damp and condensed damp due to thermal contact with a cold wall. Just ask them what type of board they want.

NT