Easy way to fix Kingspan then plasterboard to an internal wall?

[mike]

The upstairs external walls of our house have a narrow cavity - too narrow to be filled when we had cavity wall insulation downstairs.

I'm about to redo the bathroom and I'm considering beefing up the insulation with Kingspan under plasterboard.

I've got some sheets of Kingspan left over from a previous job so I don't particularly want to buy the ready-bonded Kingspan/plasterboard combo. Because it's a small, I don't want to lose a lot of floor area building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.

Is there a cheap, easy way to do this that doesn't lose an inch or two of room space? A suitable cartridge adhesive or hammer in fixings maybe?

The end result will be tiled over.

[Andy Dingley]

Same here. Celotex's web site has some nice illustrated constructional suggestions.

OTOH, I read all their suggestions carefully, then ignored them. I'm using half the thickness, with cold bridges around my studs. It means I lose about 2" on the room, not 5".

[RobertL]

building stud walls, battening or dot and dabbing.

Why would studs reduce the floor area? You could use studs that are the same thickness as your Kingspan. wedge the kingspan between them and tape over the joins and studs (vapour barrier), then plasterboard.

Robert

[Andy Dingley]

The "official" line is that studs are cold bridges. So you need two layers= of board and studs, with the studs crossed. You also need to size the thic= kness, such that single layer board thickness under the studs is still adeq= uate. This turns into quite a thick package.

[george - dicegeorge]

board and studs, with the studs crossed. You also need to size the thickness, such that single layer board thickness under the studs is still adequate. This turns into quite a thick package.

dont use studs, stck it with dryfix

?[george]

[Grimly Curmudgeon]

Expanding foam used as a criss-cross pattern and a line around the edge. You can get low-expansion ones, but the ordinary one does fine. Just brace the board against the wall for up to an hour until the foam hardens off.

[geraldthehamster]

yers of board and studs, with the studs crossed. You also need to size the = thickness, such that single layer board thickness under the studs is still = adequate. =A0This turns into quite a thick package.

The cold bridging is probably not a deal breaker. The advantage of studs is that (assuming you remember where they are) you have something behind the plasterboard to fix into (for cupboards, shelves, radiators, etc.). Easier than trying to fix to a wall through 2 inches of Kingspan.

Cheers Richard

[mike]

Thanks for all the replies. The dryfix or low-expansion foam with some of those whack-in fixings sound like just the thing.