Earthing cooker hood

I have just fitted a new cooker hood as part of my kitchen rebuild. The motor inside the hood is double insulated and therefore the cable is 2 core only. Having followed the various discussions on earth bonding in this group I am trying to assess whether it is sensible to connect the metal outer of the hood to the earth from the fused spur.

As I see it although only a remote possibility, potentially a fault could occur at the crimped joint I will be making between the applicance cable and the cable from the fused spur. This joint will be concealed in the chimney piece of the hood.

The spur is fed off my new rcd protected ring main.

If interested here is a picture. The morale in the house is improving as SWMBO can finally see the kitchen taking shape (albeit after 4 months of having to cook in a building site.

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does the group think?

Tim

Reply to
deckertim
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I have just fitted a new cooker hood as part of my kitchen rebuild. The motor inside the hood is double insulated and therefore the cable is 2 core only. Having followed the various discussions on earth bonding in this group I am trying to assess whether it is sensible to connect the metal outer of the hood to the earth from the fused spur.

As I see it although only a remote possibility, potentially a fault could occur at the crimped joint I will be making between the applicance cable and the cable from the fused spur. This joint will be concealed in the chimney piece of the hood.

The spur is fed off my new rcd protected ring main.

If interested here is a picture. The morale in the house is improving as SWMBO can finally see the kitchen taking shape (albeit after 4 months of having to cook in a building site.

formatting link
does the group think?

Tim

Reply to
deckertim

My double-insulated hood's instructions explicitly stated that it should not be earthed.

Reply to
Grunff

I have just fitted a new cooker hood as part of my kitchen rebuild. The motor inside the hood is double insulated and therefore the cable is 2 core only. Having followed the various discussions on earth bonding in this group I am trying to assess whether it is sensible to connect the metal outer of the hood to the earth from the fused spur.

As I see it although only a remote possibility, potentially a fault could occur at the crimped joint I will be making between the applicance cable and the cable from the fused spur. This joint will be concealed in the chimney piece of the hood.

The spur is fed off my new rcd protected ring main.

If interested here is a picture. The morale in the house is improving as SWMBO can finally see the kitchen taking shape (albeit after 4 months of having to cook in a building site.

formatting link
does the group think?

Tim

Reply to
deckertim

On 14 Dec 2004 09:36:34 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com strung together this:

I think you should only press send once. Don't earth the cooker hood, have you earthed all your other double insulated appliances in the house?

Reply to
Lurch

In article , snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com writes

I think you need to learn how to click the mouse button once.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

I think mine did too; but if an installer is putting his own joint in the cable effectively within the metal casing of the appliance, could that not over-ride the mfr's instructions?

But isn't the best solution to wire the appliance direct to the FCU, by replacing (rather than extending) its flex assuming that isn't presently long enough?

By the way - to the OP - when I asked a question here recently about ducting for my own hood, I got my wrist slapped for having used 100mm stuff, as I think you have (from the photo). 125mm is de rigeur for the application, I gather!

David

Reply to
Lobster

You should not be using "crimped joints" inside the metal chimney as they are not double insulated ! this makes your hood no longer double insulated. Get an approved insulated method of joining the flex or replace the flex with a longer length.

Peter

Reply to
Peter

And the approved method would be ???

Reply to
Stephen Dawson

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 19:04:29 +0000 (UTC), "Peter" strung together this:

Ooh, didn't noticed that bit. Definitely not a good idea that joining in the chimney bodge up. Use some sort of inline plug and socket arrangement or an inline flex connector.

Reply to
Lurch

I used a 20amp DP switch hidden, but accessible, behind the metal chimney. The switch was flush to the wall with the cooker hood flex entering through the outlet in the side of the switch. See:

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then sealed, to prevent moisture from food being cooked entering, the edge of the switch to the wall with silicone.

I cannot remember weather the cooker hood flex had an earth or not.

Any comments on the "legality" of the above most appreciated!

Steve

Reply to
Steve Jones

Sorry that should have been:

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I think I should also mention that the cable from the 20A switch went to a FCU on the kitchen ring. Don't want to be accused of being a total cowboy!

Steve

Reply to
Steve Jones
"

The connectors need to be in an insulated enclosure with flex clamps, you can buy such a thing at B&Q etc maybe replace the flex or move the fcu nearer to the hood or an inline connector like used on garden extension leads.

Peter

Reply to
Peter

extension

Thanks everyone for the replies. Sorry that I have upset people because of technical problems with google, hopefully my previous posts have shown that I don't really need to learn to press send only once!

Replacing the flex and wiring into the FCU will be a problem as I have already plastered this into the wall, so I will have to go with a method of joining the cables. Is a crimped joint with heat shrink sleeving really a bodge?

What are the issues with using 100mm ducting? This was all I could get from Wickes on Sunday and I wanted to get that bit done. Also my core cutter that I borrowed was 100mm.

Tim

Reply to
deckertim

Yup, same here! I think it's just that cooker hoods are usually designed for use with 125mm ducting, so aren't peforming at their best if they are throttled by narrower stuff. Mine dosen't seem too bad TBH, but I don't know how much better it would have been had I used 125mm ducting. However I was way beyond the point of no return by then, so I'll never know now!

David

Reply to
Lobster

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