Does anyone use one of those small bits that you get to fit in to a drill to screw in drywall screws . I have two ,one being this one
Stuart
Does anyone use one of those small bits that you get to fit in to a drill to screw in drywall screws . I have two ,one being this one
Stuart
These are Phillips #2 bits... I take it that's what your screws are (ie, not PZ #2 size)? That will certainly make a difference.
Other than that... are you trying to drive them too fast? What sort of drill/driver are you using?
David
Either of what you say could be the reason . The screws are
The drill is similar to this one .It has variable speed but thats tricky to work as it is dependent on trigger pressure ..
You may find a cordless drill/driver with a preset torque limit (virtually all do) makes things easier, but looks like you have the correct bit for your screws.
The screwfix screws are PH2, so the bit should fit. We've always used good quality standard bits for the drill (50mm for preference), but I've just bought one of the drywall bits, so I'll see how it goes. There isn't really a knack for using them, except to make sure you push the drill hard enough into the screw head while driving it.
I presume the drywall bits are designed to slip once the screw is far enough in, so a) the bit may be designed to slip more easily than a standard one, and b) the bit could wear out fairly quickly (and thus become more prone to slipping)
Andrew
I've used these before
I've used a Bosch 18v cordless hammer drill (not in hammer mode!) to install them, depending on the hardness of the material you are screwing into (mine was 40 year old well seasoned redwood) you might want to increase the initial pressure so they bite but keeping the speed down and keeping the pressure maintained was about the only thing I found necessary to drive them to the correct depth, one or two went too deep when I pressed too hard - but that element of the job required such little skill I didn't take notes :)
I happened to be in B&Q today for the first time in months and noticed that despite doing lots of drylining supplies such as tape and compound they only do straight edge plasterboard!
B+Q was where I got my last two lots of 8x 4 T/E Plasterboard so maybe that branch is just out of stock ..
Odd that... I have stuck in thousands of the blighters using the shrouded bits (like those pictured in the Axminster link someone posted) and never had a problem.
I always use a Wiha clickfix bit holder:
Not me.
That's a good idea (see below).
If you care about the job, drive the screws in with your machine, until they're holding the board, but not "finished", then do the last bit with a screwdriver.
If you use one of those things to do up screws, it will quickly
5hag the bit (and screw head, not that it really matters) and you won't be able to screw so easily.
The problem is that what he's screwing into will vary a lot. One time he'll be going into timber near a knot. The next he'll hit something a lot easier to screw into. Going into hard stuff will leave the screw head proud. Going into soft stuff with the same setting may mean that the screw pulls through the PB.
You don't really need any torque limiting with these shrouded bits. The design of the bit and the use of the philips head is designed to pop the driver off the screw when it is set at the right depth. Hence you can zam em in fast and not really need to worry.
Hum, not in my experience. The right bit locks in to the head very well, with no tendancy to pop out at all. It's good enough to carry the screw to position (without being magnetic). By over-torquing one, I did once break a screwdriver bit -- all
4 edges suddenly snapped off and stayed in the screwhead.
Was this into plasterboard? I have found once it is about a mm below the surface of the board, the shroud forces the bit to disconnect from the screw.
Perhaps the different shrouds don't all work as well as each other.
Oh sorry, I missed that you were referring to shrouds. In my case, it was a plain bit, and it was fixing down a plywood cover to a cable channel in the floor (which uses drywall screws as they self-tap into the steel channeling very well).
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