Drywall Scewdriver Bits

Does anyone use one of those small bits that you get to fit in to a drill to screw in drywall screws . I have two ,one being this one

formatting link
?id=46278&ts=31727and find both slip out of the screw head and just spin round at the least resistance so I need to either stop the drill and try again or ,more likely,revert to using a screwdriver ... Anyone any thoughts on whats the best way to use drywall screws .?

Stuart

Reply to
Stuart
Loading thread data ...

formatting link
?id=46278&ts=31727> and find both slip out of the screw head and just spin round at the least

These are Phillips #2 bits... I take it that's what your screws are (ie, not PZ #2 size)? That will certainly make a difference.

Other than that... are you trying to drive them too fast? What sort of drill/driver are you using?

David

Reply to
Lobster

formatting link
?id=46278&ts=31727>> and find both slip out of the screw head and just spin round at the least

Either of what you say could be the reason . The screws are

formatting link
?id=16374&ts=33066Doesn't call them No anyhting just the size 3.5 x 32mm

The drill is similar to this one .It has variable speed but thats tricky to work as it is dependent on trigger pressure ..

formatting link

Reply to
Stuart

You may find a cordless drill/driver with a preset torque limit (virtually all do) makes things easier, but looks like you have the correct bit for your screws.

Reply to
dom

formatting link
?id=16374&ts=33066> Doesn't call them No anyhting just the size 3.5 x 32mm

The screwfix screws are PH2, so the bit should fit. We've always used good quality standard bits for the drill (50mm for preference), but I've just bought one of the drywall bits, so I'll see how it goes. There isn't really a knack for using them, except to make sure you push the drill hard enough into the screw head while driving it.

I presume the drywall bits are designed to slip once the screw is far enough in, so a) the bit may be designed to slip more easily than a standard one, and b) the bit could wear out fairly quickly (and thus become more prone to slipping)

Andrew

Reply to
auctions

I've used these before

formatting link
answer to some of the queries raised by others in this thread In my experience all drywall screws and bits are Phillips no 2 as you need cam out under load which posidriv wouldn't provide.

I've used a Bosch 18v cordless hammer drill (not in hammer mode!) to install them, depending on the hardness of the material you are screwing into (mine was 40 year old well seasoned redwood) you might want to increase the initial pressure so they bite but keeping the speed down and keeping the pressure maintained was about the only thing I found necessary to drive them to the correct depth, one or two went too deep when I pressed too hard - but that element of the job required such little skill I didn't take notes :)

I happened to be in B&Q today for the first time in months and noticed that despite doing lots of drylining supplies such as tape and compound they only do straight edge plasterboard!

Reply to
Matt

B+Q was where I got my last two lots of 8x 4 T/E Plasterboard so maybe that branch is just out of stock ..

Reply to
Stuart

formatting link
?id=46278&ts=31727> and find both slip out of the screw head and just spin round at the least

Odd that... I have stuck in thousands of the blighters using the shrouded bits (like those pictured in the Axminster link someone posted) and never had a problem.

I always use a Wiha clickfix bit holder:

formatting link
with the shrouded bit and its magnetic action gets a very good grip on the screw. I use them in my 18V combi drill set on its highest speed range (the screws are single thread and need a fair bit of twiddling) and tend to find it works really well with the screw sunk to just below the surface level, but not eough to break the paper on the board.

Reply to
John Rumm

Not me.

formatting link
?id=46278&ts=31727> and find both slip out of the screw head and just spin round at the least

That's a good idea (see below).

If you care about the job, drive the screws in with your machine, until they're holding the board, but not "finished", then do the last bit with a screwdriver.

If you use one of those things to do up screws, it will quickly

5hag the bit (and screw head, not that it really matters) and you won't be able to screw so easily.
Reply to
Chris Bacon

The problem is that what he's screwing into will vary a lot. One time he'll be going into timber near a knot. The next he'll hit something a lot easier to screw into. Going into hard stuff will leave the screw head proud. Going into soft stuff with the same setting may mean that the screw pulls through the PB.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

You don't really need any torque limiting with these shrouded bits. The design of the bit and the use of the philips head is designed to pop the driver off the screw when it is set at the right depth. Hence you can zam em in fast and not really need to worry.

Reply to
John Rumm

Hum, not in my experience. The right bit locks in to the head very well, with no tendancy to pop out at all. It's good enough to carry the screw to position (without being magnetic). By over-torquing one, I did once break a screwdriver bit -- all

4 edges suddenly snapped off and stayed in the screwhead.
Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Was this into plasterboard? I have found once it is about a mm below the surface of the board, the shroud forces the bit to disconnect from the screw.

Perhaps the different shrouds don't all work as well as each other.

Reply to
John Rumm

Oh sorry, I missed that you were referring to shrouds. In my case, it was a plain bit, and it was fixing down a plywood cover to a cable channel in the floor (which uses drywall screws as they self-tap into the steel channeling very well).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.