Drum brake skimming?

It really doesnt matter what shape the pockmarks are. The bulk of metal and brake shoe around it determines the wear.

NT

Reply to
NT
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T i m presented the following explanation :

I would tackle them with a wire brush in a drill to get the worst off, then just let the shoes finish the job on the road. A bit of pitting will not harm them, so long as the shoes have a reasonable surface to bite on, they will work assuming everything else is working.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

I know, but it might be nice to have it for this (doing the drums in general) and all the other rusty stuff I process. ;-)

Here is a pic of one hub as I took the drum off:

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A wire brush will do

Understood.

Ok ta and willdo.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

I think we may need to determine what is 'soft rust' and what is 'heavy rusting'.

With the drums the part up against the back of the wheel is still black paint of some sort. The outer and inner 'cast' finish seems to have come up ok with a couple of light wire brushes on an electric drill (and about 10 mins on each so far). What was the frictionable surface seems to have a 'skin' of rust on it that I could /nearly/ scrape off with the blade my penknife (but still not down to bright metal as such). I'll try and take a picture soon and post the link here.

Here is one showing a bit of the outside and the hub nut as I removed the hub cap.

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to me that looks horrible but, once removed and just washed in paraffin it came back to looking like a plain steel nut (and not even really rusty. Even the split pin came out easily!) ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

3rd set down ...

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Drum (inc integrated hub and bearings), 2nd one down (each).

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(second one, each set).

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tyres, mudguards, goods box steelwork, fittings (hinges / tailgate drop pins) bodywork ply, lights, cable, paint and ideally a couple of rear prop stands.

Soo, given the chance I'd like to reuse as much as is safely possible. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

That's what we (he) used inside the drum and the bigger flat one on the external stuff.

I don't think it's that sorta rust

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Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Is that the hub and the other image the one that was near the ground when it was on it's side? As you have found with the nut it cleans off easy and no great damage. I suspect the same with shot of the shoes etc most will clean away easily, I'd have a good clean and wire brush of the springs, one might be broken anyway from the hub shot. Plenty of lining left on the shoes.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

I've seen a lot worse than that in my time.

strip and clean - looks basically OK.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

'kinell ... wire brushes is the name of the game then .. ;)

Shows how long ago it is since I re-furbed a trailer.

Reply to
Paul - xxx

Hmm. perhaps YOU didn't drive spridget as fast as they would hgo with drums on the front (early ones) in cars that had not been seviced for years and had lost their pad material & where rivets had scored 1/8" deep groves in em. :-)

Or where the actual shoe metal had turned them into a ploughed field in miniature.

asked about it on the freelander ...'not allowed' fortnately they are OK.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Borderline.

If I knew where I'd skim that, but it should pass a test after you polished it with pads wound up to touch and a few miles of towing

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

In New Zealand!

Reply to
Matty F

personally I don't think a few trips round the block will make a good job of cleaning that off. Can you spin the hubs some how and hold a bit of wet and dry backed by a something firm against the friction surface.

Wire brushing does tend to follow the contours of the soft stuff leaving anything hard behind. The high points of the hard stuff need to be shifted with a real abrasive.

Overall the hub looks in good nick but not that bit. B-(

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

DOH! ;-)

Cheers, T i m.

Reply to
T i m

;-(

Ok and cheers,

T i m

Reply to
T i m

No, that's a common misconception. If your licence is too late to automatically include the category E, you are still able to tow over 750kg.

For those without category E, you can tow a trailer where the Maximum Gross Weight (MGW) of the trailer is less than the kerb weight of the towing vehicle AND the MGW of the trailer plus the Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM) of the towing vehicle add up to 3500kg or less.

So, for example, a 1500kg Nissan Primera towing a 1000kg MGW trailer is fine, but a 2545kg Rangerover towing it is not.

All the other usual things apply, such as the trailer MGW being within the maximum permitted for the tow vehicle.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

I'm sure that Haynes manuals used to quote the allowable dimensions for drums on older cars, I don't know if they still do. If there is any manufacturer's name or number on these brakes, it may be possible to find out what is allowable.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

Erm, it may be a mixture but they both seem equally affected (which is a bit weird).

Yup.

Hmm, sonny Jim has given them a quick go with the wire brush in the drill (only a fairly soft one) but the shoes have probably the worst rusting.

I think I started to lift that out then took the pic (taken as my reassembly guide). ;-) All the springs are rusty but still seem to have plenty of 'spring'. This might be a good excuse to get a wire brush for my bench grinder or a new one with two grades of brush. ;-)

I agree but, where the rust has got under the end the lining seems to be lifting off the shoe. Someone suggested riveting them on in case? Had they come off completely I think I could have got them re-bonded but as they are quite important I may get some new ones in any case.

Maybe I could use them as a sacrificial 'bedding in set'?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Well, certainly to start with. ;-)

That's the thing. I think trailers are one of those strange situations where they cost what they cost rather than what we are willing to pay.

Sonny Jim was looking at 3 way - tipping 4 wheel trailers ... and was talking about putting a crane on as well!

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

If you are trying to get the rust off them electrolytic de-rusting is the simplest, most effective, cheapest and safest way.

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computer powers supplies are ideal sources of 12VDC.

Reply to
Peter Parry

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