Drills - Not SDS this time

[dom]

That's a very good torque figure. That drill's probably well suited to driving a mixing paddle as well.

[Cicero]

====================== Even if you get a drill powerful enough it might snap the bits. It might be worth trying to modify a bit so that the diameter is slightly reduced after the first few inches of cutting length. It would work something like a forstner bit but obviously not so exaggerated. I suppose you've already ruled out a spade bit with extensions?

Cic.

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[John Rumm]

Not bad certainly, although the best cordless drills can match that these days:

[Stephen Dawson]

>>We are electrical contractors who work with a bespoke joiner, and they have started doing new build with green oak beams and complete oak installations. We tried the cordless, but broke them, SDS is no good because the safety clutches kick in.

We used new auger bits , or they were sharpened 2 or 3 times a day. The bits were not the issue only the machine to drive them in.

I have had a look at your other post and I may give the Makita Cordless a try. Failing that will will get the Metabo corded machine.

Thanks for everybody's advice

Regards

Steve

[Stephen Dawson]

Spade bit just does not cut in this applicaton.

Steve

[Guy King]

The message from "Stephen Dawson" contains these words:

Cheap SDS machines have no clutches.

[Guy King]

The message from "Stephen Dawson" contains these words:

How about one of these?

'd have to adapt it to clamps instead of magnets to hold it down, but it's low-geared and powerful. They also sell larger ones.

[The Medway Handyman]

Wouldn't overlook the Wickes High Torque Drill, made by Kress in Germany.

85Nm takes some beating. £99 with a 3 year warranty.

[Stephen Dawson]

I will pop into Wickes and have a look.

[dom]

How does the joinery company drill its peg holes?

They must have to do some cut to fit on site.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Might also be worth checking out Ebay for secondhand industrial machines - I'm pretty certain I've seen them on sale, and they don't fetch that much.

[Weatherlawyer]

Ah, I see your problem. An auger is pulled into the work by the screw. But we are discussing green oak, which has a mind of its own. I can't see me going back to the good old days where I might have the opportunity to try it.

Perhaps some dashing hero will experiment on my behalf? Remember that I did also specify slow drills and sharp bits.

[Weatherlawyer]

That's a good point.

To the OP: Why not measure where your cables are going and give them the specifications so that they can drill the holes?

BTW I can't see many cordless drills being much use on green oak. A 110 volt would be ideal though. Come to think of it, the last time I drilled into that stuff was to put pegs in a truss.

I just used my little Makita 110v and a standard HSS bit, though that would have been for a hole only 10 or 12 mm wide. It was long enough ago that I can't quite remember.

[Ian White]

If the wood is too hard, the screw tip becomes part of the problem, because it pulls the cutting edges too tightly into the wood. It might be better to grind it off to an edged point like a spade bit, so you can control the cutting pressure yourself.