any good websites dealing with the installation of retrofitted double-glazing?
Youtube has loads of videos but they're all about installing into pristine new-builds
a few hours in the local library showed the superiority of books
as they explained installation techniques for the last couple of decades
but some things about placement/retrofitting of a vertical damp course I'm still unclear about
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Gill Smith ( snipped-for-privacy@googlemail.com) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011 20:39:
I had that problem - wasn't much of a problem though, for me. I was able to have the window frame (uPVC) bridge the cavity DPM and filled the space with foam - and still get the window where I wanted it.
Is that what you meant?
indeed
aligning frame + cavity + damp course, then securing/filling
- the existing installation has damp patches on vertical walls
because the window frame doesn't bridge the cavity
and the vertical damp course was *plastered* to the exterior wall
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i.e. down the sides of the window
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Gill Smith ( snipped-for-privacy@googlemail.com) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February
2011 21:05:
If you are fitting uPVC, try to span the cavity gap - it's less critical exactly how you span it as the frame is both damp proof and a reasonable heat insulator.
If you were fitting wooden frames, might be trickier - but if you leave a
1/4"-1/2" gap all round which is usually what you have to leave to cope with opening irregularities and measurement errors - you stuff this with PU expanding foam which helps the frame rigidity, blocks damp and is a thermal insulator.Mind you, though Barrat may rely on foaming for fixing, I still use a few big-assed screws! But foam does help - it's amazing how much a frame that won't fall out, but is still a bit wibbly becomes absolutely solid after the foam sets.
HTH
Tim
You usually dont need to span the cavity gap totally. Just make sure the uPVC frame goes some way across the cavity. Close the cavity with an insulated cavity closer (usually has integral vertical DPM although not strictly needed with a plastic window frame), or expanding foam maybe. The uPVC frame separates the plaster / plasterboard from the outside skin as long as it crosses the cavity to some extent. Simon.
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sm_jamieson (sm snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) wibbled on Wednesday 02 February 2011
22:42:
Interesting. I didn't have a closer as the 1950's house had the cavity mostly closed by a turned in leaf - 1/2" gap with a bit of DPM shoved in.
harry ( snipped-for-privacy@aol.com) wibbled on Thursday 03 February 2011 08:47:
Those retro fit OK...
I thought you'd be younger ;-)
just whacked off more plaster work
the house was built with a brick return
phew!
it's a good house (mostly) that's been abominably treated
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Like mine, I see your DPC was cut with v. little overlap protruding from the brickwork
p.s. was that fibreglass packed between the hanging DPC and exterior wall?
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I meant in this pic
geraldthehamster ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.co.uk) wibbled on Thursday 03 February
2011 10:12:
I was 20 years younger 7 years ago, then I had kids. well, SWMBO did, but the blast radius is quite wide(!)
Gill Smith ( snipped-for-privacy@googlemail.com) wibbled on Thursday 03 February
2011 10:52:
Probably some blown fibre cavity fill escaping...
I did pack a few small voids with glass wool where I had to make good old vent holes, because it was to hand...
Gill Smith ( snipped-for-privacy@googlemail.com) wibbled on Thursday 03 February
2011 11:01:
brackets, so I didn;t have to make a mess after we moved in.
Then last winter (2009) was cold so I saled the old window frame in with foam. Good move...
though it was also cheaper, a strip of 6in plastic with a strip of polystyrene the width of the cavity and about an inch deep attached to it. You can see the edge of the plastic is this:
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