Double box cable outlet faceplate thing?

[T i m]

Hi All,

I currently have a double 13A socket that is going to be temporarily lost behind a unit in the lounge and would like to replace that with a suitable (switched / fused) faceplate running ~1m to a 4 way gang that I can then plug light / portable stuff into (mobile phone chargers, network kit and the like). Ideally the faceplate would have bottom rather than front cable entry to keep the profile as low as possible.

Now I've seen all combinations in the single box size but not double (I'd be happy with a single outlet and the other half blank but it would all have to be the size of a double).

I would like to have maybe 10A (just in case) so a clock socket probably wouldn't do (and only come in singles I think).

Any thoughts please?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. I don't really want to move the socket elsewhere, re-work the double back box into a single nor cut the unit in that area if I can help it . :-(

p.p.s I'm more bothered about doing it easily, neatly and safely than anything else .

[NOSPAMnet]

I've no idea what it is you are looking for but can't you use an extension lead .I have one that is both switched and fused and iirc has 4 sockets . The switch does disconnect ALL the sockets but you can get something like this

[Bob Mannix]

I know exactly what he is looking for but I can't see the advantage in using a switched FCU over an extension lead. In either case the switch will be inaccessible. Even with an unswitched FCU the fuse will be inaccesible. This being the case, why not just use the extension lead?

By enlarging the hole sideways about 25mm you could fit one of these:

then fit two FCU's side by side or an FCU and a blanking plate. The advantage of this approach is that it still doesn't look too bad if it is revealed at a later state and converted to two single 13A sockets.

[ARWadworth]

One option is

feeding

with this

this

and this

Carefully cut/file/drill the faceplate at the point you wish to bring the cable out and you should not have to worry too much about the profile.

Not a cheap way of doing it though.

Adam

[T i m]

;-)

Ah, ok, I'll try to explain better. The space between the unit and the existing double 13A socket is too small to even allow a std 13A plug-top to be plugged in. So I was hoping to 'temporarily' remove the double socket and fit some form of cable outlet and then a trailing socket (4 way will do). I don't really want or need a fuse or switch there but thought I might have to have one (and / or should have one to protect the flex) and why I mentioned having a higher rating fuse in this socket than in the trailing lead (so the lead in the fuse would blow before the one in the plate ... hopefully). If I had to I could pull the unit out (to change a fuse etc).

I had thought of that Bob but it will involve quite a bit of work (and potential damage) as I fitted these boxes / sockets some years ago and I'm pretty sure they won't come out easily.

But still, a good option for the reasons you gave (so thanks). It's on the option list now. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

[David Hansen]

On Mon, 01 Sep 2008 17:10:00 GMT someone who may be "ARWadworth" wrote this:-

How is the flex emerging from the faceplate to be clamped?

[David Hansen]

On Mon, 01 Sep 2008 19:30:40 +0100 someone who may be T i m wrote this:-

I have never seen what you want. That doesn't mean they don't exist, but I haven't seen anything suitable. You might want to peruse the grid ranges of Crabtree and MK to see if anything suitable could be assembled, but make sure there is a clam for the outgoing cable and proper protection against chafing.

I wouldn't bank on discrimination between the fuses, even if one is

10A and one 3A.

[T i m]

Cripes, thanks for that (and I could see where you were going after the first link). ;-)

Ah, I wondered how you were going to get past that stage Bob . I thought the last one was going to be a cable exit / gland but as you say it would probably stick out too far.

No, but it might be cheaper in time and effort ... and easily reversible.

So, I assume the grid mates with a standard double back box (I probably fitted deep ones)?

So, from the electrical pov, *should* I have a (DP probably) switch and fuse, to protect the cable from the box to the fused 4 way trailing socket please?

All the best ..

T i m

[ARWadworth]

A good point. One that I missed.

There is a proper cord outlet that would take up the 3rd module instead of the blank. I cannot find my MK catalogue for love nor money and cannot guve a cat no.

Adam

[T i m]

and cannot guve

K4886 WHI ?

But, as we thought, I think this brings the cable out at 90 deg to the plate (so will intrude into the room) .. :-(

Mind you, it will be easier to put a bit of a bend in some flex than to squash a plug top! ;-)

All the best ...

T i m

[The Medway Handyman]

Perfect excuse to buy a Fein Multimaster or Bosch PMF180. Cut a rectangle out of the back of the unit so a plugtop will fit.

Does the job & you get a new power tool...

[T i m]

;-)

I have a similar tool (but not as flash) but if I cut away sufficient to allow a plug to pass the unit wall collapse.

All the best ..

T i m

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Wicks do a FCU with bottom flex exit.

[Owain]

You could use a double blanking plate, cut a recess at the bottom to take a surface cable and run that along the wall as an unfused spur to a location convenient for a FCU and 4-way strip. A fused 4-way strip could in theory be connected without a FCU but all the ones I've seen have mfr's instrructions that say that an external 13A fuse is essential, so that would be non-compliant if you didn't have that.

The cable would have to be clipped or otherwise fastened. Ordinary junction boxes etc do not have cable clamps and they are not regarded as unsafe. Provided the cable is sufficiently well fastened to the wall surface (and nailing clips into wooden plugs would probably be better than nailing the pins into plaster) it should be sfae enough for domestic use, given it'll be behind furniture so small children etc shouldn't be able to tug it.

It is not "best" practice. One point to watch is that the cable is not chafed by the edge of the metal flush back box.

Owain

[T i m]

Hmm, that'll be a single though won't it Dave?

I'll have a look inside this double and see how easy it might be to fit a twin box (as suggested previously).

All the best ..

T i m

[Owain]

That would have to be 2.5mm minimum or whatever your ring circuit is wired in.

Owain

[T i m]

Ok ...

Ok, and not a real issue. I *can* get the unit out to service a fuse and would like to keep it on in reasonable (practical) spec.

It could well only be a very short run thought Owain, from the wall nearly directly to the 4 way?

Ok ..

Exactly. I would prefer a proper FCU for the fuse, the dp isolation and the cable clamp and will go for that if practically feasible (and I've been given a few good ideas now). ;-)

Understood. If I did such I would always protect by suitable edging / grommets etc.

All the best ..

T i m

[Dave Plowman (News)]

No need - as it's temporary and covered by the furniture simply fix to one side of the existing box. You could cut down a one gang blank plate and make some form of strap between the two if you want a higher strenght fixing combined with a safety cover. Then it will be easier to reinstate the two gang socket.

[T i m]

Ah, a 'thinking outside the box' solution. ;-)

I guess that as long as the single plate is reasonably stable and the hole filled up then not much can go wrong eh (not pretty but safe enough, electrically etc). Especially behind a unit. ;-)

All the best and thanks Dave.

T i m

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Plates tend to sit on the wall so a one gang in a two gang box will be supported on three sides. Of course the majority of the strength in these things is in the outside rib which you'd need to remove on one side to fit the smaller box - but if concerned about strength use a metal one.

However, if you use a plastic plate and cut it accurately, araldite a steel strip on the back to provide a fixing for the second screw (perhaps a self tapper) you'll end up with a neat safe and secure result.