Door Frame - what fixing

[DavidM]

The frame on my external side door to my garage has worked loose from the wall, resulting in the door not closing properly. I've tried frame fixings but they don't seem to pull the frame back tightly against the wall (I think they're specifically designed to not do this). I need something that will really pull the frame back very tightly against the wall, and the head of the fixing will need to be level/just below the surface of the frame.

I've looked around at other fixings but not sure what best to use. The main problem is that I don't want to remove the whole frame from the wall, so I can only drill through the frame and into the wall, and the fixing could pull out as I screw it up tight. I'd thought of hex head concrete screws but looking at pictures on Toolstation and Screwfix they don't seem that substantial and with a big enough head to not pull in to the wood (plus I only need about 8).

Advice much appreciated.

[fred]

In article , DavidM writes

Use resin anchors (threaded studs set in resin). Counterbore the frame by enough to lose the head of a nut and large (to spread the load) washer. Cut the stud flush if any still protrudes.

That said, this shouldn't be happening, the gap of the frame should be set by a top member on the frame. I'm assuming this is a simple door 3' or so wide.

[harryagain]

Crap has probably got in the space between frame and block/brick work. You will need to get this crap out with a thin tool. (Hacksaw blade?) There may also be packing pieces in there too. If you can get it firm you might consider planing the door down to fit.

You can push the frame into place with a bit of scrap timber across the doorway. Cut slightly too big and hammered sideways into the doorframe reveal. But the crap has to come out first.

[DavidM]

Don't see how resin would work. As said, I want to leave the frame in place and drill through it to (and into) the wall. If I then try and resin fix a stud it's going to end up fixed to the wood as well, Even if I can get the resin far enough in to the hole to get through to the brick. Unless I've misunderstood what your's saying.

Frame width is ok at the top, it's just come away from the wall from about 1/3 of the way down, and yes it's just a simple door (but 3' 6" wide and heavy).

[DavidM]

Yes, I'd realised that the crap has to come out, it's the fixing that I hope to get advice on.

Planing the door is something I want to try and avoid, as it'll probably mean removing re setting the locks and bolts. The frame's rebated of course, so that's a bit tricky to plane off, plus it's full of old fixings.

[fred]

In article , DavidM writes

See pic here:

resin comes with a long thin injection tube that will go right through your frame into the hole, goop from bottom of hole to 3/4 full and then extract. Goop on wood unlikely once pressure released (like caulking) but clean it if you mess it up.

You'll use the same size hole all the way through twist drill through the wood then masonry drill or SDS thereafter. Cleanliness is paramount, clear hole buy blowing through a bendy straw (to avoid dust in face), then use teapot spout brush to loosen then repeat until clear.

The resin on that link is good as it will fit in a regular caulk gun (most don't).

A pack of studs will come with washers and nuts but will have a hex end protruding for twisting in, leave this protruding and cut off once (well) set to avoid having to counterbore too deeply.

Leave 24hrs before tightening properly.

Gotcha, use packers behind the frame at the fixing points to avoid pulling the frame too much (way too easy to do).

[harryagain]

Fixing should not be a problem with frame fixings.

[The Medway Handyman]

These?

Easier to pull a sailor off your sister that get one of these out. Incredibly strong fixing. Washer under the head solves the problem, available in bags of 10, free delivery on orders over £10.

[DavidM]

Ah - yes that looks more like it - M10 with a washer under the head!

(must warn my sister about sailors

Thanks!!

[<me9]

I've used quite a few of those. As long as the hole is clear they screw in easily. I've been worried with one or two that would screw in by hand where the hole went through part of the frog in the brick. They still seeed to hold quite well.

Whilst recently working on the roof I used them to fasten a bracket on the front of the house for a safety rope over the ridge. it worked well but I didn't find how they took to a shock loading! I've now removed the bracket, but am wondering how strong it would be to re-fit in the same holes if I need to go back up there?