Do I need a new SCMS?

[The Medway Handyman]

So it doesn't use the sawboard principle? One thing I like about the sawboard is that it reduces splintering on the upper surface.

I'll post a pic of mine 2moro out of interest.

[stuart noble]

Probably :-)

[stuart noble]

Dunno. IME splintering is usually the result of the blade chattering, which in turn is caused by lack of sustained downward and forward pressure when pushing the saw. I've cut worktops and trimmed door bottoms with no problems.

Yes, I'd be interested. I knocked this up 20 years ago to do one quick job ...........:-)

[Mike]

I can't see how is sufficient for 4.8m timber, it's just 3.7m long or

1.85m either side of the saw line. If lopping off say 100mm from a 4.8m length there will be 2.85m overhanging the end of the left hand support, more than enough for it to overbalance the free end.

[stuart noble]

>>> This is sufficient to support 4.8m timbers, and because the timber

This is presumably partly why TMH is thinking saw to wood rather than wood to saw.

[dom]

You clamp the saw down at one end of the bench, and it's exactly 2.2m from the line of the blade to the furthest support.

(those pics of it with the saw in the middle is just the work of the clueless photographers)

I'm right-handed, so the saw is set at the extreme right of my bench (of the non-extendable area) and just as you would normally press the timber against the back fence with your left hand - so you do with a slightly overlength timber, to support it during & after the cut.

In practice, you would very rarely trim 100mm from one end of a 4.8m timber anyway.

[The Medway Handyman]

>>>>> This is sufficient to support 4.8m timbers, and because the timber

Ferzacerly.

[The Medway Handyman]

Quite common when deck building, granted 100mm isn't common, but cutting a sort length (250-300mm) is. Depends what the supplier has in stock & how big the deck is.

[dom]

Lol - but next to never do you cut a 100mm to *use* from a 4.8m timber

- you cut it from your heap of short oddments.

You might occasionally trim a 4.8m to a 4.7m - and that's perfectly doable on those benches.

For studding it's preferable to have long timbers for headers and footers (but rarely longer than 4.8m) and slightly less than 2.4m in standard height rooms (or all bloody sorts in my chapel - up to 4.2m) and then lots of noggins a little under 600mm.

[The Medway Handyman]

Sorry, should have said 'trim off'. I do cut a lot of 400mm noggins though.

[John Rumm]

That is the sort of job the bench is very good fir I find. Set an end stop, load up a few lengths of timber, chop, slide, chop etc producing several noggings per cut and loads of copies all to exact length.

[The Medway Handyman]

Pickys here

[stuart noble]

I think with a bottom piece (as in T square) you wouldn't need to clamp, but they're all variations on the basic sawboard principle. Discourages you from changing your saw too often and having to make a new jig (and put a cute little handle on it :-))

[The Medway Handyman]

I tried mine out yesterday cutting deck boards to make planters, needs some modifications. I reckon yours might be better, I'll make one up & try it out - it will have to have a cute little handle though :-)

[stuart noble]

Ideally you want your thumb on the bottom edge of the cross piece with room for four fingers flat on the long bit, so I suppose 2"x 1" for the bottom and 4" X 1/4" for the rest? For stuff like decking, where you know the edge is straight, the cross piece can be short. Obviously one side is the blade/baseplate distance, and the other could be the same, which means you wouldn't need the little lip to keep it balanced. I've never thought about it this much before :-)