DIY home cinema screen

Hi, all.

I've borrowed a projector for the xmas period, and am setting up a temporary home cinema for the kids ( and me! ). The wall is not great as a screen, so I was going to make a simple one. I was going to get a thin sheet of cheap MDF or hardboard, and paint it.

The various AV forums suggest painting the screen material with Dulux "IceStorm 5 or 6", which can be mixed at any shed.

The question is: how best to apply the paint to minimise texturing?

Texturing is OK under diffuse light, but is rather ruthlessly revealed under intense projector light. I've always thought rollers give a rather textured finish, but then again, brushes can leave brush-strokes too. I don't have an air gun, but could possibly borrow one. ( cue horrid orange-peel effects from inexperienced air-brusher. ) I am also suspicious that 'regular' emulsion paints will not work well in an air gun, for reasons unspecified. Bung them up, or something?

Which would you do: brush or roller, or air gun?

Reply to
Ron Lowe
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Buy a roller blind with a plain backing on one side...cheaper than buyinf MDF and paint.

Reply to
SirBenjamin

I've projected onto plain walls in the past (16mm film). Others have mentioned similar experiences : that one thinks it's going to look awful, but in practice it isn't a problem.

Films are rather different to projecting computer images - the latter are more likely to have large steady areas of block colour, giving you time to notice problems, whereas films have movement and texture of their own which hides imperfections in the screen.

cheers, clive

Reply to
Clive George

I'd spray it. But I've sprayed bits and bobs before. TBH if you thin the paint and spray it, the worst that can happen is runs. Orange peel is caused by paint hitting what you're painting too dry or not thinned enough - not too hard to get with a solvent based paint, but with emulsion? Just slap some more on and it'll level itself out. I'd paint it laid flat or at an angle rather than upright... And you're right that emulsion is too thick. You'll need to thin it. You might get it though a primer gun... Or just use a system designed for paint...

Reply to
Doki

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Reply to
SirBenjamin

Lots of people used to have proper screens for their 35 mm slides - can't you find somone to borrow one from?

I borrowed a projector from work once and was amazed how much better the image was that in any of our conference rooms with white walls as screens. The prism texture (or glass beads on some) give better viewing.

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Reply to
John

=============================== Consider paint pads. I would suggest MDF in preference to hardboard because of the difficulty of getting really flat hardboard.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

I made a DIY projector screen by making a frame, stretching a cotton sheet over it, and stapling in place.

Worked pretty well, and cheap too.

Reply to
xscope

Yes, I do have one of those. That was my first option. It's just not big enough. The projected image measures around 40" high x

53" wide. The screen I have is only 1240mm ( 49" ) wide.

For the cost of a sheet of MDF and a tin of paint, I thought I'd make something better.

Reply to
Ron Lowe

Thanks.

Reply to
Ron Lowe

I agree in general, however it rather depends on the wall!

This wall is heavily textured, and streaked with odd colours. Some horrendous 70s leftover. ( Yes,it will be re-done at some point! )

I've actually got the projector in place, and it's not satisfactory. So I'm going to set up something better.

Reply to
Ron Lowe

I would buy a white cotton bedsheet, wet it, stretch it over a frame, let it dry and tauten.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Hmm, ( looks in garage. Finds box compressor came in. Finds air brush, and dusts it off. )

So what would you thin an emulsion with? Just water?

How thin? 50/50? less? more? Like how much to dilute a 1litre tin? Just suck it and see?

I might just do some suck-it-and-see tests just for fun tomorrow.

Reply to
Ron Lowe

Fair enough - but my point also applies to the texture of your proposed painted board - ie the texture introduced by eg a roller won't be a problem.

cheers, clive

Reply to
Clive George

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By the time you've done this you'll be in for 20 or 30 quid.

Is it really worth the hassle when you can get the "real McCoy" for 50 or 60 quid?

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Reply to
Vortex

Jings how mean do you have to be? I just bought a screen because the presentation room I was using wasn't fitted with one. It cost £49 from Jessops and I reckon that was top whack.

Reply to
Steve Firth

I already have a slide projector screen.

It's 1) too small,

and 2) due to it's fabric material, when un-rolled it has a tendency to curl at the edges making it difficult to get a truly flat surface I find that irritating in use.

I was hoping that a sheet of MDF screwed to the wall would be flatter and more like what I want.

Reply to
Ron Lowe

I'm reckoning around £15, and compared to £50/60, yes I'd say it's worth it esp. if what I get is what I want.

I was hoping that a sheet of MDF would give a flatter surface than roller-fabric solution, which IME tends to curl at the edges.

DIYing projection screens is an ancient and noble art, not a waste of time!

Reply to
Ron Lowe

agreed - "fine" rollered matt white works pretty well (even for powerpoint type stuff) provided the ambient light level is low enough. I haven't tried satin myself but it should be OK. C

Reply to
Chris Hodges

Ikea plain white plastic shower curtains are pretty good for front or back projection. They also make good light tents for photography.

Reply to
Chris Hodges

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