DIY ADSL connection?

Posted replies show a varying amount of understanding of how tel_cum _ADSL works.

May I clarify please?

A telephone audio signal has a max frequency of 5kHz - technically also a low frequency signal. The two signals are combined and fed into the telephone cable to your house at the exchange. Sometime c.1990 it was found that a signal combined in this way was good for 1 to 3 miles from the exchange. Hence ADSL internet services.

So you only require ordinary telephone cable to extend the phone system (with or without ADSL) within your house. 'External' grade cable is only different in that it is more rugged & weather proof: unlikely to offer any advantage over internal grade for your 10m run (but don't run it thru water). An extra 10m run is nowt.

You can extend your existing cables by any jointing system you like. Common sense suggests making sure the existing connection to the exchange & any of your equipment which might be sensitive to static is isolated first. You can use IDC connectors, special tel junction boxes with internal screw terminals, simple soldering or anything else which gives a good connection. Thing to remember here is that it is all low frequency work, so just as long as connections are sound and permanent (& properly insulated) almost anything goes. Perhaps beware of dry solder joints, especially if the cable may be exposed to fluctuating temperature.

If you connect a phone directly to an ADSL enabled line you will hear much high pitched interference. A microfilter (what you are calling a "telephone/ADSL splitter") is in fact a low pass filter which just passes the telephone sound signal to your phone. It rejects the ADSL signal which is left untouched. Done this way you need a microfilter for each phone. The full telephone signal (ADSL+tel sound) is fed into your computer network card (which contains a high pass filter to capture the ADSL signal only).

Instead of multiple microfilters - which can degrade telephone sound if used en masse - it is better quality wise to use a dedicated filter at the point of entry into the house & have 2 internal circuits. One for the telephones & the other for the ADSL connection: suitable kit at

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if you need to several simultaneous connections to the internet you need a method of combining signals from several computers into one ADSL signal - you can't just connect two RJ11 plugs together. Combining the signals is what a router does - Wifi routers are the norm in simple installations.

Simple routers usually offer a choice of connecting to each computer by WiFi or by an ethernet cable connection which can handle the higher frequency. It is ONLY for the latter use that you require Cat5 (or Cat6) cable. Cat5 cable contains 4 twisted pairs of wires within a polythene sheath. Cat5 cable construction is designed to limit interference between adjacent signals. (In fact only 2 pairs are needed for one ethernet connection, so it is possible for 2 computers to share one suitably terminated Cat5 cable.)

ie Cat5 cable is ONLY needed for the Ethernet side of a router because of the higher signal frequencies involved. Cat5 could be used instead of standard telephone cable - there is no advantage, but a huge cost disadvantage.

HTH

Reply to
jim
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Possibly sowing a bit more confusion though?

Did you really mean to write that? you don't feed the ADSL signal into the network card. you need an ADSL modem to take the signal and then feed it to a computer. Nowadays this is normally combined with a router as well, but it is possible to get a standalone ADSL modem

Reply to
chris French

ADSL signals start at 25kHz and extend up to 1.1MHz for ADSL1 and 2, ADSL2+ carry on up to 2.2MHz.

You need to maintain the circuit balance and not introduce any reflections from a poor impedance match at the joint.

Hum, so the induced voltages from lighting are a common problem?

Not ideal, in theory it shouldn't make any difference how many microfilters you have, parctice indicates that you get best speeds by only having one at the NTE and place the ADSL modem there as well. Running ethernet to your router and/or AP if it isn't built into the modem. I see you correct this later.

Spherical objects.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

There is a DIY yagi antenna that one can make and stick on the antenna stub. This would make the circular pattern of the antenna a more directional beam. Perhaps it's worth a try, particularly as the antenna cost very little to make, nothing using the stuff that your average diyer already has.

Here:

which is in German, but the photos here

pretty much cover it, excepting the lengths and distances for the wires, which are here.

Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

You don't need to use the onboard wifi, though - you could disable it and use a separate access point, or use both if they're on different channels.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Humphrey

Thanks for your interesting and useful response. My experience is that you are completely right; my ADSL worked perfectly for 2 years with the wire going out of one window and into another.

The ADSL connection has gone bad now, and disconnects roughly once an hour.

I've checked everything that could possibly cause a problem inside the house - I moved the modem to the telephone inlet, swapped the modem, using a short RJ12 cable to connect it to a new splitter/microfilter.

What is annoying, and very inconvenient, is that the modem only re-connects when it is switched off and on again. This means someone has to be in the house. I was using it to connect from Ireland to Italy and was planning to use it to carry out some simple tasks.

It seems to me that a modem should be able to re-connect without external help; I wonder if there are ADSL modems around that do this? I'm not sure of the make of the Telecom Italia modem; it doesn't seem to have any indication on the box.

Unfortunately, I am discovering that Telecom Italia is famous for doing nothing for a very long time - I have had messages from several people saying they have had similar ADSL problems which continued for months if not years.

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

That's what I do in Ireland. I probably will do it here (in Italy) in the end, if ever the ADSL connection is repaired. (I do have one desktop computer connected to the modem by ethernet; but that goes off when the connection drops, even though the Ethernet and ADSL lights on the modem remain on (green).

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

You could put it on a time switch which is programmed to power cycle it once a day, or similar.

I look after multiple ADSL lines across all my extended family. In the early days, we had Dynamode modems which under certain circumstances of BT Wholesale failure, would end up connected to the BT testing endpoint instead of the ISP, so it thought it was up, but there was no Internet access. I ended up writing a cron job on a separate unix router present on most sites which checked the modem every 15 minutes, and if found it connected to the BT test endpoint, it used the management interface to reboot it. That effectively made the problem go away.

Similarly, the SPA3000 VoIP adapters which are part of the same setup at each house can get into a mode where they think the exchange line is on-hook, but it's got it off-hook, so anyone trying to call will get Engaged signal. It turns out this can be spotted in the web interface by seeing the status is shown as On-Hook but the loop current is > 0.0mA (which it shouldn't be if the device is On-Hook). Again, a cron job checks the SPA3000's periodically, and uses their web interface to reboot them if they get into that state. I see in the logs it happens every couple of months, but I've had no more complaints because it gets automatically fixed now.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Thanks again for your response. I did think of using a timer like that, but have left it too late now. The modem only lasts about an hour at most, so I would have to connect shortly after the timer went off.

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

Change the front on the master socket to an ADSL faceplate with RJ45 & RJ11 sockets.

Run a length of Cat5 from your master socket to the desired location of the router using one of the twisted pairs as the conductors.

Use a small IDC junc box and short length of RJ11 terminated cable to join the two, or if you are able, crimp an rj11 plug to the end of the cat5.

Job done.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Thanks for your response. But I wouldn't dare to do this, as it would give Telecom Italia an excuse to do nothing, which is what they are doing anyway.

Actually, I have moved the modem down to the telephone inlet into the house (joined to the microfilter by a short RJ12 cable). This hasn't improved the ADSL service, which still fails every hour or so, requiring the modem to be stopped and re-started by hand.

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

Yes, mine does. It also has a configuration setting to not do this.

Guess you need to do some digging to find out what you have then try and track down a user manual for it. Always assuming that Telecom Italia haven't put custom firmware onto it that only they can access.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

(Apologies if you said that earlier.)

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

ZyXEL P660R-61C

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

We had a similar problem and in the end I bought a new modem - the problem disappeared. I think it was related to when they started to increase the speeds and introduce 2+ - the old modem just detected too many CRC and other errors and restarted itself.

Reply to
John

Yes, I think that is very plausible; the ADSL connection worked perfectly for 2 years, until 3 months ago. The modem then stopped working altogether, and Telecom Italia swapped the modem, which worked after a fashion but kept dropping the connection.

I have a vague recollection that Telecom Italia mentioned that ADSL speed was to be increased at approximately the same time that the modem failed.

I've decided to try a new modem, and have more or less decided on a Billion 5100S RC modem. This is not a WiFi modem; I plan to connect it to my desktop, and then connect a WiFi router to the desktop.

I'm hoping the Billion will reconnect if and when the line drops without needing to be physically re-started.

I've looked around for a forum or mailing-list devoted to ADSL, but haven't found anything.

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

Is getting a modem like that a poor move? I'd always recommend a combined router/modem, unless you're trying to do strange things. More secure unless you're very careful, talks to anything you want it to, will reconnect on line drops.

Reply to
Clive George

I don't see why a modem/router should be any better than a modem from that point of view. Maybe I'm using the wrong term; I mean a modem with an ethernet connection to a computer, but no WiFi facility. (Also, I should have said Billion 5200S RC.)

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

Ah, phew. An ADSL modem has adsl signal on one side and typically a USB connection on the other, to plug directly into the computer, which comes with a pile of problems. What you're describing is often called an ADSL router, and is the sensible option :-)

Is signal through walls the reason you want to separate your router and wifi? I'd say getting them in one box is a sensible default option for most. You can always turn the wifi off when you're out.

Reply to
Clive George

Draytec Vigor 2820vn is a pretty good ADSL wireless router and maybe another one to consider in a similar price bracket.

Reply to
Andy

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