Hi,
My built-in General Domestic Appliances dishwasher (model BF50 B/W) gets stuck on the heating phase of the program without the water heating up. If I manually move the program forward then it seems to work. So is it as obvious a problem as the heater. If so, what do I need to do to repair including how do I gain access to the heater and what would be the likely cost? Any help is appreciated.
cheers
pmcdw
Does it have a clock type programme dial like a washing machine? ie a knob that goes around clicking each part of the programme on and that you set the programme up with?
If so, the thing seems to be sticking and you could have a look at it and see if the cams are working properly.
Just an idea.
"EricP" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
Not familiar with the product but suggest; If the timer, itself, switches on the water heater it might be that those timer contacts carrying a fairly heavy current to the heater have become defective? Then, depending on the circuitry some machines will not proceed any further through their washing cycle until the water has reached, or is at, a set temperature. So the thing acts like "No water" or "water too cool" and just stops and sits there? Depends on the logic and circuitry of the machine. The heater itself may be OK, but electricity not reaching it for some reason? If however the timer just stops or jams at that point in the cycle and by moving it manually water heats and everything else works OK, it may be a timer problem. See if there is a circuit inside which may include a diagram of which cam on the timer controls each function. There may likely be a set of cam contacts that allow the timer to run until it is at end of cycle and then stop itself. If these contacts were dirty/corroded or the timer cams worn the timer might stop rotating at that point? Most timers are basically driven by a little electric clock motor? Recently we had a "no fill" dish washer problem and it was due to corroded contacts of the timer switch itself and also to a defective/intermittent microswitch float switch. The very simple logic of ours meant that the machine does not check whether the water has gone in or not and it just carried (dumbly) on through the whole cycle without any water at all! I have thought about modifying it, although since we've had virtually no problems for about 20 years it probably isn't worth while!
The program clock had a circuit diagram next to it with 60 settings detailed inluding a pretty good description of each of the clock settings. THe machine operates normally but as soon as the clock advances to a heating setting (no. 12 on the dial) then the machine just continues cycling with no heating. However if I manually advance the program to no 13. the machines functions ok until the next heating phase and just hangs there. In other words it fills with water and drains fine but at a heating stage it just hangs. Any clues????
thanks for your interest
pmcdw
simple, I'd see if theres power reaching the heater element. But if you dont know that much, I'd hesitate to recommend it, you could fry yourself good and proper, then you might try and sue me, so dont do it.
NT
I guess I don't even know that much. Is this machine worth calling out someone to fix it or should I spend £250-300 on a n ew one?
cheers pmcdw
I'd make a few calls and ask for quotes. If its just a heating element its a straightforward job.
Paul: With that description I suspect you may be getting close to the 'logic' of what is NOT happening.
Again not familiar with the product and I'm not in the UK.
So will suggest this; something 'else' may be happening in another circuit, that becomes or is involved at and or between 12 and 13?
For example is the logic of the machine such that it will not advance further in the overall cycle if it senses that water is not present i.e. is there say, a water level switch that is not functioning correctly so the machine just says, even though water may have actually flowed in, "Aha, no water; so I won't proceed further". OR: Is it a function of how hot the water is; i.e. the water flows in but because it senses some problem in the heating/temperature of the water due to another sensor or thermostat machine says "Hey; water is too cold. I must stop until it is warm enough". And then it never does heat up due some fault in that water heating circuit.
That fault, as you asked originally, could include an open circuit heating element. With electricity off you could remove the wire at one end of the heater and measure the heater itself with a test Ohmmeter, you should get a reading of something around a few hundred ohms (I'm not familiar with the exact value) based on an assumption that element is around 500 watts?
However before hauling the machine out or apart you could (WITH POWER COMPLETELY OFF AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER) feel carefully around the water heating element, if accessible. If it is 'crusty' or seems to have burst slightly at some point it may be open and most likely be faulty. Since they are normally immersed in water such a fault may not be as evident as when the element in a cooking oven which gets red hot, goes faulty. Cheers.
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