Dimplex storage heaters

[Adrian]

Hi I have three storage heaters in the first floor of my maisonette flat. One is in the hall as you come in and then the other two are in the living room. They are Dimplex XLS heaters, XLS18, XLS12 and an XLS24. Two have stopped working (XLS18 and 24), although the middle one is still functioning. They are probably around 15 years old. I have attempted to work out why they have stopped working but don't really seem to be getting anywhere. So any help is gratefully accepted. They run on Economy 7, though a seperate ring with 20a fuses. I have checked the fuses and they are all correct. The two broken heaters do not work at all. I have checked the elements in them and they all seem to be OK (no obvious breaks in continuity). The thermistor seems to be working as well although I am a little unsure of how to correctly check it. One of the other things that I'm not sure about is a brown thermal fuse that is wired in to the input circuit, I'm only guessing that it is a thermal fuse but it might be some sort of regulator, it is brown rectangular block with a ceramic / white interior and has 3k8-J then greek resistance symbol and then the ohm symbol. Underneath it has 113-102, but no other marks. I believe that this is only active when there is current, which is hard for me to test as I no longer live at the flat so I'm not there during economy seven hours. I tested for continuity but it did not register, but then when I tested the same component on the working heater it did not register either.

Does anyone have any pointers on how to check or replace these parts? I have found a few web sites selling spares but I'm not sure what to order?

Thanks in advance

Adrian

[Andy Wade]

That sounds _awfully_ like a resistor to me: 3800 ohms and "J" means

+/-5% tolerance. Are you sure the value isn't 3k9, or 6k8, as these would be more 'standard'?

What it's doing in a storage heater is a good question - accelerator resistor for a thermostat perhaps.

I can't help much more I'm afraid, have you tried phoning Glen-Dimplex to see if you can find a helpful service bod?

[raden]

113-102 sounds like an RS part no

phone them up and ask what it is, if it's a n oscilloscope, then that's my idea down the drain

[Andy Wade]

I thought of that and typed it into the web site. You get an MCB and something else irrelevant. Your turn to try Farnell - they use similar SKU numbers.

[Dave Liquorice]

The only times I found an RS or other companies part inside a commercial product is after it has been repaired by some one with enough knowledge to select such a part rather than just buy the makers spare...

I've currently got a dead storage heater and it's the heat input thermostat that has failed. This has happened before on another heater of similar vintage, looks like the "wax" from the sensor leaks onto one of the terminals, causing a little corrosion which then causes heating and finally complete disintegration of the terminal. New heat input controls are =A330+... B-(

[raden]

Allen key, micrometer or cable ties - -so obviously incomplete

Well, it was a thought

[Adrian]

I also tried searching for the parts on various web sites b ut again no joy. I phoned dimplex and they have told me that it is an accelerator/resistor. It is used to help open the output valve.

It is probably the thermostat. So I'll get a spare one and test it.

Thanks for the help

Adrian >In message , Andy Wade

Adrian

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[Andy Wade]

Ah, so I wasn't far wrong. But how do they control the output valve (flap?) during the 17 hr for which the power is off? - or is there a 24 hr supply as well as the switched supply?

FWIW the Unidare ones I use in the workshop have two input thermostats in series: one (with remote capillary bulb) at the bottom sensing the ambient air temperature and one on top of the core sensing the charge temperature. Both are simple bimetallic stats (no 'acceleration'). The output flap control on these is purely thermo-mechanical.

[Adrian]

Well I'm not sure. These heaters are only connected to E7 so no other supply. However it is connected to the bimetallic switch so perhaps it is just to make sure that the switch is open when the E7 is on to prevent over heating?

Adrian

Adrian

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