Hi,
Just been quoted £85+vat / m2 for low-e glass and 133+vat for toughened by a local glazier in Kent. This is for 12mm air gap, 20mm overall sealed units.
Normal air fill, argon is £5.25+vat extra / m2.
Just wanted to ask, is this wide of the mark or fairly reasonable, before I go getting half a dozen more quotes?
Is there such a thing as an online supplier, because I'm b***ered if I can find one with google. Whole windows yes, sealed unit no...
Ta muchly,
Tim
Might help if you told us the window size... ;-)
John Rumm coughed up some electrons that declared:
Ooops - sorry. Got used to m^2 pricing. Actually the first 2 units will be
900x875 mm (re query a couple of weeks back about removing glazing beading)Having worked out that the thermal efficiency of 12mm gap DG is barely any worse than any other larger gap types (I checked low-e glass U-values, with and without argon), I've concluded it's worth saving these frames. If I can get a sensible price on sealed units, I'm tempted to re-glaze the lot as it's all done in plain float glass and the surface areas add up to quite a bit over the house.
The wooden frames need checking and re-coating (it looks like a preservative/sealer rather than varnish - haven't decided what to use, frames are hardwood of some sort), so I might as well pop the ali frames out, tidy them up, stick better locking handles on, check and fix the wood and re-fit + reglaze. Then that'll be a job done for the next 10 years or so with minimal senseless wasteage (probably reuse some of the old good DG units in a shed + summerhouse).
Cheers
Tim
It looks expensive to me, compared with our experience.
Recently we've had a couple of leaded lights of about this size encapsulated (i.e. glazed on each side and sealed), they were under £40 each. It was float glss and I don't think they contain argon though. We're very pleased.
We use a local glass supplier, have done for years.
Mary
All the prices are per square metre -> /m2.
If the Windows predate Part L (April 2002), you don't need low-e glass. If the window has multiple panes, you don't want to mix low-e and normal glass as the low-e will look obviously tinted. (Of course, you might have low-e in windows predating Part L, but that wasn't very common).
Andrew Gabriel coughed up some electrons that declared:
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for that - had crossed my mind. Then it occured to me that if I were replacing about 40% of the glazing area per damaged window and that the rest of the units are probably going to fail in the near future, I might as well uprate the thermal characteristics, at least in the rooms with the larger areas of glass.
Cheers
Tim
OK, but I would suggest doing some sums. When I did them (admittedly before current fuel price hikes), low-e was never going to come even remotely close to paying for itself in any reasonable lifetime of the window. Just about any other energy saving measure you spend the extra money on instead is going to be much more effective. And that's without even allowing for needing the lights on more with low-e glass!
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