On Tuesday 23 July 2013 13:47 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:
75x50 min I would say - and for the size of shed you quote, I presonally would use 100x50 (aka 2x4").
Use treated timbers for the base plates. After that it is a little less important if you can build and maintain it watertight.
Go onto youtube and see if you can find Tommy Walsh builds a shed (was on telly last year) - it did have some good tips, especially wit the roof.
You could make light work of this with a combi sliding saw and for fixings use ScrewTite, Reisser or Pasload screws - these are all very good - will self drill, not much splitting risk and using some 5mm x "quite long" (as suits the joint) will give you good strong joints with minimal woorking skills (the sliding saw will take care of that).
Nailgun for fixing the cladding or smaller Screwtites (etc) if you really want to.
Power screwdriver.
You must decouple the shed from the ground - at least with some DPC.
For extra water titghtness/wind presistance, wrape the frame in DPM plastic sheet and staple on tight and smooth before cladding.
On Tuesday 23 July 2013 15:23 mogga wrote in uk.d-i-y:
That rings a bell.
If you want :) I would say you could survive with well chosen screws and a power driver, but it will take 4-6 times as long. That may of course not be a problem :)
I built a 10' by 16' using 2x4 and the timber was way oversized - 2x3 would have easily been sufficient, for a 6'x8' I would consider 2x2 (but probably plump for 2x3 - I prefer over-engineered).
The first shed I "made" I bought in flat-pack. Was so flimsy I wouldn't ever consider it again - I'd build it myself.
Aye, our shed is an 8 x 6 flat pack. The frames and intermediate verticals about every couple of feet are at the most 1.5" square. Individual panels are a bit "flimsy" but once all bolted together pretty riged. It stayed together when the wind rolled it over...
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If I was going to build my own shed of 8x6 size 2x2 is ample. I'm assuming 8x6 is feet, maybe those proposing 4x2 (inch) timbers are assuming the 8x6 is metres? B-)
We've got a concrete base done - it's for a composting toilet and we reckoned a concrete floor means it'll be easier than boards to keep clean if it gets messed up.
Ah, in that case I'd lift the walls off the floor by an inch and fit a slatted wooden floor at least for a few square feet in front of the throne. Gap is so you can easily hose/pressure wash it out and provide ventilation, slatted platform can be removed have hosed/pressure washed and replaced. Ordinary concrete is porous, it will absorb "stuff", so it needs a waterproof screed or very well sealing/painting
Surely the size of the framing members relates to the frame/rafter spacing. So 4x2's would sit further apart than 3x2's.
And then the cladding will have a bearing. (If sheeting it with 3/4" ply th is would add considerable strength.)
I've built two sheds and am considering a third. I used corrugated iron she eting for roof (with some translucent panels ), back and sides. Front and d oors were done with t&g. Them my sheds are hidden behind the garage/worksho p (never had a car in it) so the aesthetics weren't too important
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