dead lock

[>{daZza]

I have at present an old chubb 5 lever dead lock in my front door that has seen better days, want to replace it with similar but nothing seems to fir? the distance on my old lock between door edge and keyhole center is 52mm, all the locks i can find (chubb, yale, assa etc) have either 45 or 57mm gaps, that would mean a fair bit of woodwork as the original keyhole will not line up thus leaving a hole showing either one side or tuther of the nre brass key plate, any ideas where i can get a direct replacement of the old lock or perhaps some pointers how i can get one of the 45/57mm ones to fit with out too much giggery pokery,

CIA

-- daZza...........

darren@"BUTPLUG"thekellyhouse.plus.com remove "BUT PLUG" to reply ;-)

[meow2222]

usually a lot easier to repair the lock if theres something wrong with it. If its a key problem, they can be rekeyed once with no parts needed.

NT

[Chris Bacon]

"Google" for "backset 53mm". HTH.

[Dave Fawthrop]

On Mon, 3 Oct 2005 19:10:45 +0100, ">{daZza}

[>{daZza]

thats all for the help, will try the local locksmith first for the re-key idea, didnt know it could be done :-)

-- daZza...........

darren@"BUTPLUG"thekellyhouse.plus.com remove "BUT PLUG" to reply ;-)

[Chris Bacon]

You could DIY it, a blank costs 50p, if you need to buy one rather than make it. You'll need some files, too, which you can then save up for another job!

The "cut to lock" key will be £6 to £10. The others, normal. Make sure they're de-burred.

[>{daZza]

like the diy approach, i used to be a toolmaker before i got into service engineering so i still have all the kit (needle files etc), like the idea of the challenge :-)

-- daZza...........

darren@"BUTPLUG"thekellyhouse.plus.com remove "BUT PLUG" to reply ;-)

[Chris Bacon]

Service engineering?

It's nice, take the thing apart & see how simple it is. You'll also see why you ought not leave a key in a lock that can have the key used from either side :).

[fred]

In article ,

If it's a good chubb (BS3527) then it'll have a brass 'curtain' sleeve which rotates with the key during operation (it's an anti-pick device). That part wears as the lock is used and can make the lock a bit sloppy, going to a locksmith will let you get a refurb of all worn parts. I've managed to find a really good guy locally to me but just be aware that they have their good and more average members of the trade.

btw: you can see a curtain sleeve without removing the lock as it can be seen as a thin bush when looking through the keyhole - easier with a torch.

[Peter Taylor]

">{daZza}

[Rob Morley]

Take it to a decent locksmith and have it fixed - all the internal parts are still available and it will almost certainly cost less than replacing with a similar quality lock.

[Dave Fawthrop]

| > like the diy approach, i used to be a toolmaker before i got into | > service engineering | | Service engineering? | | | > so i still have all the kit (needle files etc), like the idea of | > the challenge :-) | | It's nice, take the thing apart & see how simple it is. You'll | also see why you ought not leave a key in a lock that can have | the key used from either side :).

I can take a three lever apart, but I took the cover off a five lever looked at the complexity of the thing, and replaced the cover. Much too difficult for a mere design engineer.

[zikkimalambo]

To hijack this thread, at my parents we had a Chub lock and had a number of keys made for it (non Chubb blanks)

These wouldn't work. A friend of my brothers then filed the end of the shaft of the key down about 3/8" and the key then worked. We then had the rest of the keys altered by the "key cutter".

I've necver understood, why that 3/8" should have prevented the key from working surely it should just have stuck out of the other side of the lock?

Any answers??