Nobody seems to have suggested scraping it off using an electric hot air gun. For older (oil based) gloss that seems to work well - it bubbles up and then scrapes off easily. Robert
Nobody seems to have suggested scraping it off using an electric hot air gun. For older (oil based) gloss that seems to work well - it bubbles up and then scrapes off easily. Robert
I've done a lot of that - but it's only worth doing for really nice woodwork. If it's the standard modern stuff, it makes more sense to simply replace it.
And a smaller room.
Mary
Nobody seems to have mentioned the Mr Bean method of painting either
It depends. Replacing door frames can be PITA. Using a electric hot air gun and scraper is very quick and easy IMHO.
One of our neighbours got to do both. Painting UPVC is a bad enough idea, but it's not as bad as hot-air stripping it.
Now I would have videoed that and put in on YouTube:-)
In article , Tim Downie writes
Paint over with aluminium paint to stop colour bleed through and the decorate as usual.
Are you sure about that? When I moved into this house the garage had been painted with "aluminium" paint, this was always dusty and every time I re-painted it, the dullness of the aluminium came through the gloss within a couple of months.
Perhaps you should have used undercoat before the gloss coat. Aluminium paint used to be sold as a primer for resinous woods. You didn't need knotting.
[2nd post]
Probably I didn't on the first attempt, but I did on the next attempt and it still ruined the finish, third attempt I sanded a much of it off as I could and it was looking good for a while, but then the mechanism broke so the door was replaced anyway!
Aye, I remember the duck-tape DIY draft proofing there.
JGH
If you can get a sample of the original colour and add that to the undercoat you intend to apply, it will cut a lot of the glare-through out. It does this by supplying a universal rather than splotched "showing through" or glare.
Use high quality paints as they use a better "colour". In white paint this should be titanium oxide and there is no way of knowing which brand contains the optimum other than asking experienced decorators.
I meant "grins" but forgot the term.
The Natural Philospher (of this parish) has described Farrow and Ball as "three times the pigment for only twice the price" - that fits with my experience.
I'm always an advocate of the best way to apply pigment to a wall being to mix more of it into the binder, rather than having to paint more binder onto the wall manually. However F&B are a crazy price, and you can obtain equally good paints from several other high-end ranges for much less than F&B's yummy mummy prices on Cotswold village high streets. I tend to use Crown's RIBA range, as they're easily available from Crown decorator centres.
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