That's encouraging! Thanks.
The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate:
The bump looks to be very brittle but your suggestion is worth trying with the insert idea as an alternative if/when I find it won't shrink back down.
I would go with the tile
The stainless bars are fine in solid wood work tops but the groove for them in formica will expose the core to damp. Stainless plate without insulation under will I suspect cook the core to some extent
If you can get a decent bevel edge tile or marble pastry board you can set it proud of the worktop by a couple of mm
This allows for a bit of sealer around the edge and also means that if a hot pan is put not quite in the right spot it does not touch the surrounding formica
Regards
down on the kitchen worktop
Might be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks will prove a bad idea.
NT
answer to your "what offcut" question ...
Seal the slot with good varnish before you even think about putting anything in.
Not a repair, but we use 'heatproof' glass worktop protectors; got them from Tesco. Convince SWMBO that these are just what are needed, then cover up the damage with one.
Terry Fields
Or a nice big granite tile.
You are doomed. Is there a Travelodge in your area?
down on the kitchen worktop
Not if you do the job properly and don't leave any unsealed cracks.
Colin Bignell
Yes, although the tool was brand new and very sharp.
Colin Bignell
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.
Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...
Management has stayed calm. So far.
The pan only makes contact with each rod along a fairly small line, at most, (and that is assuming you get them all level and at an equal depth) so the rate of heat transfer is going to be fairly small. You could, of course, use larger rods that will take longer to heat.
No more of a problem than any other hole, such as a sink, or the joint between worktop and wall. Silicone mastic should work perfectly well.
Colin Bignell
At one time some of the sheds sold a product called "Hot Rods". These were intended to be epoxied onto the laminate surface. Would it not be possible to carefully grind the blister off (with an angle grinder, if you must, or better still a Dremel type machine) and epoxy them on in the regular fashion? I think they are also available as a self adhesive version.
I'll have a look for some. Hopefully, their diameter is greater than that of the bubble.
I like the idea of a marble or granite insert, but if I can get a fix without making any more holes in the surface then that would be preferable.
to protect our Village Hall kitchen worktop from further damage - after a very hot kettle had be put on it, I found a stainless steel plate (rolled at the front edge) which I placed over the damaged area. It's a few years ago, but I think I used Evostik to hold it in place.
i did exactly this once but burned a much bigger area. We 'fixed' it by getting a nice rectangle of fancy stainess steel and gluing it over the damage. This then looked like a special place designed to put hot pans.
Robert
"If you can't hide it, paint it red"
Nice one!
Or turn it into an 'architectural feature'.
That was my first reaction, but I'm concerned that it would conduct heat straight through to the worktop and raise more bubbles if I/we repeat the hot griddle pan trick...
Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement.
In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be.
Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to go for? I've no relevant experience...
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