D/Glazing into timber frames

[Arthur 51]

Hi. Could you check out the quality of info for double glazing into timber frames please.

2

and let me know if its the best method or not in your experience.

Thanks.

Arthur

[Stuart Noble]

The bottom bead is always the weak link if the panels are inserted from outside. Are these new timber frames?

[Arthur 51]

The dg panels will be inserted from the inside in a new door frame (side lights and top light) All of the verticals are made from stock forms from a good timber yard You've probably seen the pre-machined rebated ovolo moulded lengths made from meranti I think. The horizontals are sapele.

Arthur

[JimK]

if you read the article you quote you'll see there are 2 methods described - which are you having done?

JimK

[Arthur 51]

I'm looking to stay conventional and use Solid Bedding. However, I'm now in 2 minds after having just looked up a couple of links. The drainage method seems to require a bottom edge have a 10 degree slope from the inner edge of the frame to the back of the bead and a hole through the base of the bead. This extra work wouldn't stretch me too much.

Arthur

[fred]

In article , Arthur 51 writes

I have used a modified fully bedded technique:

1. Fix glass into frames using security glazing tape [1].
2. Completely fill the void around the glazing unit with low modulus neutral cure silicone.
3. Finish with a glazing bead using a neoprene foam gasket to keep elastic pressure on the glazing unit.

My units are fitted from the outside, if it was the other way around then I might use a silicone bed on the outside face instead of the tape.

[1] Double sided foam tape, exceptionally stick adhesive, various sizes and thicknesses but I used 12mm wide x 2mm thick.

[dom]

Mine are inserted from the inside, and mounted with butyl glazing tape between sealed unit and rebate.

My experience is butyl tape makes it easier to get a perfect seal exactly where you need it.

You could add a clear silicon bead *as well*, particularly at the bottom edge of the glass/rebate - where it will get the maximum rain run-off from the glass.

My own experience was the rebates remained perfectly dry even in very heavy rain with butyl tape alone, even though the frames have some provision for moisture to trickle out of the rebates.

Butyl glazing tape comes in brown and white (brown matches sapele very well), and a few widths and thicknesses - I think I used 3mm by 10mm.

[JimK]

Me too - some of mine are "drained and vented" with the sloping bottom cill and hockey stick bottom beads - people moan about the appearance but seriously who gives a F? The DG units are done with butyl on both sides.

Thingh with this solid bed stuff is *if it fails* (which you won;t know til its too late) the blodges of siicone under and up each side of the DG unit create a damp "welly" that mositure cannot escape from and must surely increase the rate at which the unit *will* fail - drained and vented should not *ever* suffer from that problem - watch this space!!

(alsso cynically the GGF i think were advocating the solid silicone bed method when I looked into this - well they would wouldn't they?? increases chances of failed units and more business for the members, brother.....

Cheers JimK

[Arthur 51]

How is the drainage channel made?

Thanks.

Arthur

[JimK]

the bottom bar of the unglazed aperture is sloped to the exterior side, DG unit is set on wedge shaped blocks (blocks "cancel out" the drainage slope and allow the DG units to sit flat and square), then hockey stick bead attached to outer leaving air gap around the underneath (and all other edges) of the DG unit...NB DG unit "stuck" into rebate with butyl tape (as mentioned earlier) it's feckin sticky!! also butyl tape on outside of unit to receive beads.

Cheers Jim