D(B)raincheck

[Tim S]

Hi

This is a test fit of a swan neck WC pan connector to an unfishished 110 bend which is on an untrimmed stub coming out the floor.

anyone tell me if that's a stupid way to connect a bog, before I commit to components and placement (saving the final height trim to the emerging

110, when I actually fit the bog).

The idea is to get the bog as far back as possible, hence the swan neck...

Seems to work - but the last time I fitted a bog it was to a cast iron pipe directly behind.

I needed a short length of 110 pipe to sleeve the female socket joint and then pushed the pan connector into the sleeve - seems odd but can't think of any other way with available components...

The emerging 110 pipe needs to come forward 1-2cm, but if I trim some concrete just in front I expect I can wiggle it, only soil holding it...

TIA

Tim

[The Medway Handyman]

Not much of a fall horizontally? Could you drop the conector a little?

[Tim S]

The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:

Absolutely! It's only a trial run and I've made no attempt to trim the stand pipe (waiting for final floor + bog before we do that). The business end of bogs varies a good 6-7 cm (I measured a few in B&Q) and whilst there's plenty of slop in those components, I wanted to make sure I had adjustment potential to cope with most loos.

This is more of a "which components" trial, and a basic sainity check that the components chosen do allow the bog to sit back far enough and roughly correctly in the left-right direction.

I just wanted to see if I was doing this in an insane way or not.

Cheers

Tim

[Calvin Sambrook]

Er, no. The white to grey joint looks like you've just pushed bits of pipe into each other. If so that's not going to make a good, air tight, long term seal. I guess the white is a 90mm pipe, if so you need a 90/110 adaptor and you may need to trim the length of the white down a bit to get things where you want them.

I'm not sure what's going on with the grey/orange connection? Is that a proper joint or what? It looks to me as if a female/female sleeve (straight coupler) would fit nicely there (looks a bit like the part you've used but with a socket at both ends).

I guess you intend to sort the fall out properly?

Looking from above it's all a bit skewed. Rather than bring the orange forward could you hack away the plaster behind the swan enough to allow the white to sit square with the stack? That would gain you the most bog-back distance too.

Good luck, Calvin

[Tim S]

Calvin Sambrook coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi

Yes.

The white is a 110 pan connector - one of these:

the pan connectors I can find seem to assume they've be either pushed in to a bit of 110 *pipe* (as opposed to a socket) - or into a random clay or cast iron thingy.

I agree with the thought in principle. But is there such a thing as a 90mm adaptor (I thought 82 was the next size down from 110)?

That's just a bit of sainsburys bag that the builders wrapped the pipe in before stuffing concrete round it.

Yes, pipe not trimmed yet - this is a test fit of the components to see if I can get the reguired lateral spacings and potentially have the correct fall.

I'd rather not - I want to tile that wall. The stack's off vertical anyway - it needs to lean forward a tad. As it's only been recently (months) done, it'll move 2cm no worries once the concrete's cleared.

Cheers!

Tim

[Tim S]

Calvin Sambrook coughed up some electrons that declared:

Oh sorry - you mean the orange (I think of as brown) pipe...

The pipe is the main drain. The lowest grey coupler is a proper female-push-socket to female-solvent-socket adaptor.

The plan is to fit this flush, more or less, with the finished floor. Solvent joint is in the screed layer. That way, if any plumbing needs to be redone or modified, there is always a push joint at floor level that can be broken.

Cheers

Tim

[John Rumm]

Looks ok to me. I have done the same several times - although there was a bigger distance between WC connector and stand pipe (that was outside

- the other side of a wall the last time I did one)

Yup, fairy snuff. However how far it needs to go back will depend on the bog to an extent - you may find you need a ordinary 90 coupler rather than the swan, by the time the width of the cistern is taken into account.

(I always seem to end up with a small stock of WC connectors I can't get rid of - because you can guarantee changing you mind at least once!)

Its just a shot pipe when you think about it. Make it stick out about

2-3" and it will hide any odd angle of the WC connector as well. (which will be stuffed up inside it)

I don't think I would worry that much - there is enough wiggle room in all the joints.

[Tim S]

John Rumm coughed up some electrons that declared:

Thanks John - good to know I'm not barking up the wrong tree :)

A solvent socket bend would probably work too (and the swan neck would mate direct, probably) but I cannot find such a thing.

The other weird thing is all teh bog connectors seem to be undersized with big floppy fins to mate with any old crap pipe no pun intended).

Wonder why there isn't a plain simple range of 110 connectors (ie 110 pipe with a bog socket formed in one end)...

You're right - might not need a swanneck - some loos seem to have quite a short stub at the back.

I'm going for a high level cistern (if I can't have a decent flush volume, I'll at least conspire to get gravity on my side) and also, the bog front is 65cm from the rear wall face (most compact I can find).

Thanks

Tim