Cutting under architraving

I intending to lay some flooring in the hallway (Wickes real wood, 14mm)over xnas. There are 3 doorways so I'll have to cut under 6 bits of architraving.
Last time I did this I drilled slots and then chiselled out gap to fit the flooring.
I was just wondering if there was an easier way of doing this and any other tools I could use.
TIA
Stan
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Professionals use a circular saw with a floor plate attachment which takes out architrave and frame (I've just had mine done) at a fixed height. Carpet fitters use the same for removing bits off the bottom of doors in situ. The floor plate runs on the surface of the sub floor and the height is set for the flooring they are using (they never have to change it, of course, as they do the same thing all the time).
So, yes there is a simpler way of doing it. Whether you could hire such a saw set up is more doubtful!
--
Bob Mannix
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

Following advice from others in this NG, I cut mine with a flexible handsaw - and it worked a treat. The saw needs to be flexible enough for the handle end to bend up a bit (so that you don't graze your knuckles) whilst keeping the cutting end horizontal. Use a scrap piece of the new flooring with a bit of underlay under it as a guide - and slide the saw over the top. Use one hand to hold the saw flat on the the guide block and the other hand on the handle. You really need to undercut not only the architrave but also the frame.
The method I used made a very neat job. You may still need to finish off with a sharp chisel in blind corners. [I'll take a digital photo of one of my doorways and post a link to it - so you can see what you are aiming at].
--
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Set Square
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
[I'll take a digital photo

Further to my previous post, I've now taken a (not very good because of poor lighting conditions) picture of a bit of my hallway where two doorways are close together. The frames and architraves were undercut using a flexible handsaw - as described in my earlier post, so that the flooring could be slid underneath. The skirting was removed and put back (or rather renewed) after the flooring was laid. There is a slight gap above the flooring to allow movement. [It looks bigger than it is when viewed from a low angle, as in the photo, but is barely noticeable from normal viewing heights]. You can see the photo at:
http://www.hampton-magna.freeserve.co.uk/doorways.JPG
By way of contrast, we stayed in a self-catering flat in Cornwall earlier in the year which - by and large - had been renovated to a high standard. However, the *low* point was the way in which laminate flooring had been fitted round the doorways. I just *had* to take a picture . . As a good example of how *not* to do it, take a look at:
http://www.hampton-magna.freeserve.co.uk/grotty_doorways.JPG
--
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Holy crap, I think even I could do better than that, and if i`m ever brave enough i`ll stick some photos of my DIY disasters online :-}
--
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I hired just such a tool from HSS, worked very well.

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What you need apparently, is a Jambsaw : http://www.jambsaw.com/ I've been contemplating getting one of these myself as I have a lot of skirting board to cut, to enable a full pallets worth worth of laminate floor ( I prefer carpet myself, so I've been putting it off) to be put down in the house. They are expensive though, for a one off job.
Having looked at other newsgroups, some advocate the use of a Biscuit Jointer as an alternative to a jamb saw. I have not heard of anyone actually using a biscuit jointer in this way on this side of the Atlantic though. I might be able to justify buying a "Biscuit Jointer" if it would do this sort of job.
-- Big Al - The Peoples Pal
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message

That's the jobby. Both the wood floor layers and the carpet fitters had one when they did me.
--
Bob Mannix
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On 11 Dec 2003 01:22:44 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com (stan) wrote:

I think I read somewhere that a biscuit jointer can be pressed into service to do this job. I imagine you would need to remove the fence.
PoP
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(stan) wrote:

I've never used a biscuit jointer, kept clear of them actually as I know I would want one, just like all the other items of machinery that can be put in a workshop (or tiny tool shed with no room, in my case).
Anybody have any idea of a website with details on how a biscuit jointer fence actually works, as the pictures I've seen don't really help that much? -- Big Al - The Peoples Pal
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message (stan) wrote:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id 603&ts524
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id 663&ts524
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id 398&ts524
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id 544&ts524
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message (stan) wrote:

http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/t20k /
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<big snip>

Cheers for the URL BigWallop, the pictures in the PDF files confirmed that the "Rising Plate" could be removed on that particular model, which seems to mean I will need a biscuit jointer in the very near future to enable me to cut architraves and skirting board.
Now to find the money to pay for it, or is it possible to get a reasonable Biscuit Jointer for less than 169 odd quid.
-- Big Al - The Peoples Pal
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On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 18:11:04 -0000, "Big Al - The Peoples Pal"

There's a screwfix special which I bought not long ago:
http://tinyurl.com/yzdg
29.99. Does the job for me. May not be such high quality as some other versions but what the heck.
PoP
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PoP wrote:

I have one of those also - does a fair enough job (after I have the first one replaced because the fence would not lock without going slightly misaligned). The fence also pivots so you can fold it out of the way for jobs like this (the Screwfix picture shows it completely folded back).
--
Cheers,

John.

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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

If you fancy a biscuit jointer for other reasons, then so be it - but you can cut doorframes and architraves perfectly adequately with a 10 flexible handsaw.
As far as the skirting goes, you'll need to remove it rather than undercutting it - because you need to get at the edge of the flooring for all except the little bits you slide under the doorframes.
--
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Set Square
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Get a piece of your intended flooring, and a bit of underlay, flip the flooring upside down so that the bottom is uppermost, and with a flexible saw pressed against it saw away at the architrave and door frames to your heart's content.
As others have said, you can hire a jambsaw, but I wouldn't bother for only a couple of architraves. If you want to shorten a couple of doors in situ at the same time then it might be worth it (although having said that I've just been surprised by looking through my preferred local hire shop's catalogue and finding that they're only 12 a day).
I'd not use a biscuit jointer for one reason - nails.
I've just had to undercut a few frames to lay some oak flooring that was a bit thicker than the old boards that were previously down. There were several nails going down into the floorboards nailed at an angle through the frames, I think that these would have had a rather interesting effect if they had been allowed to come into contact with a biscuit jointer blade....
-- Richard Sampson
email me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
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