so it can be used as a stable door. chippie will route a grove for additional intumescent strip to seal the gap between top and bottom opening in event of fire.
any probs with this set up seen by you lot?
Steve
If it is a fire door, and is required to be a fire door, isn't it also self closing? If so I can't imagine how you would use it as a stable door. What situation is this in?
i fitted a fire door simply because i was replacing the door anyway and thought it a good idea due to having a disabled daughter in the house. the door isnt self closing but in the event of fire i can close top and bottom halfs to provide extra fire protection. the idea of having to halfs is so that the bottom can be kept closed to prevent little fingers getting burnt and still have an open view into the dining room to keep an eye out.
steve
Is it in a position that would require a fire door if it was newly built? You probably can't then take it away, even if it wasn't originally required.
Christian.
A door that has to be manually closed is of limited use as a fire door. I suppose if you normally keep it shut but just had it open/half open when working in the kitchen it would be better than nothing though. I don't think there is any building regs requirement to have a fire door here, so you wouldn't be breaching any regs. Would a stairgate across the door be an alternative?
The only way I could see this working is if you have electromagnetic door retainers on the doors which release automatically if the fire alarm goes off, thereby closing the door. However I have no idea what the regs say about the principle of chopping a fire-door in half as you propose; my guess is that would be a no-no!
David
Many fire doors have a filler rather than being solid wood and don't take kindly to being sawn in half. At the least you would be left with a rather odd finish where the cut was made.
In our loft conversion we had a fire door cut down to be just the top part (slightly more than a half) of a "4-panelled" pattern door. This is the access to an adjancent loft storage area in a part of the roof that wasn't tall enough to actually convert (actually our loft converters made VERY poor use of the headroom available even in the main part of the loft, but that's another long and annoying story). It was a pleasure to cut this door, as these particular doors are some kind of solid "chipboard" inside and are therefore EASIER to cut than ordinary panel-effect moulded internal doors with the "cardboard eggbox" filler. These need a replacement edge fitting where they are cut.
As we were cutting the BOTTOM half off, we have kept the intumescent strips at the sides and top - there wouldn't be one at the bottom anyway (if the other doors are anything to go by).
Regards, Simon.
In article , Simon Stroud writes
Fire Doors intended for and required to be fire doors must not be cut, except by authorised suppliers - at least that is the impression I get from the catalogues of jen-weld and other manufacturers.
Thanks for the tip.
Anyway, the BCO signed it all off (eventually) so I can sleep at night.
Cheers, Simon.
Why not keep the fire door whole - then cheat, by adding a half- height "stable" door bottom, seperately hinged?
On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 10:19:26 -0000, a particular chimpanzee named "R P McMurphey" randomly hit the keyboard and produced:
Yes, it completely invalidates any test result that the manufacturer has obtained, and is no longer a fire door.
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