Hi,
I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95 degrees.
But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle of 47.5 degrees.
So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.
Thanks,
Graham
I'd use an hand saw but you could pack it out and use filler to make the angle right.
I am trying to get away from filler. I have, for the first time, butt and scribed the internal mitres and it looks so much better. Being in a hallway all the angles will be visible. I can't hide them behind a bed/wardrobe etc !!
Graham
Graham,
As you say... without buying another saw! The best way would be to make your own mitre block. I assume you have a protractor or a carpenters sliding bevel
HTH deano.
thanks deano, I might give that a go this weekend.
Alternatively, make the angle a true 90=B0 for this and all other such external corners, and allow the skirting to sit away from the wall as a result. You can then fill in behind the gaps this leaves with decorators caulk. Once painted the same colour as your walls, the transition between wall and skirting will be invisible and your mitred corners (which stand out the most if Torus or Ogee and if coloured in great contrast to your walls) will look beautiful. Remember, background decor receeds and detail stands out!
HTAH deano.
I usually cut at 45 degrees and then fine tune with a belt sander. Cut slightly longer than you need to allow for losing some on the sander. In practice, no corners ever seem to be exactly 90 degrees anyway.
Why not put a small piece of timber near the sawblade, between the skirting and the guide at the back, to get the right angle. Use a clamp to hold the skirting firmly against the guide while cutting.
Are you using this type of saw?
Now I'm confused. Surely a mitre saw, drop saw etc will cut an angle from anywhere between 45 degrees and 135 degrees. So 47.5 is a piece of cake. My suggestion was for cutting an angle of less than 45 degrees, which would be hard without my suggestion of using a spacer (away from the blade) and a clamp.
A blond moment on my part. :-) too many sleepless nights lately,however putting an 1/4" piece of wood at the back of skirting and saw at max (45 degrees) should get you that 2.5 degrees more.
It would work if you set the saw to 42½° and turn the timber over, pretend the back side is the face. (The opposite angle to 95° being 85°) I'm not sure which way your saw operates, so this may not be a problem, but watch the blade doesn't pull out the grain on the face side. A fine toothed blade would be best.
Peter
I don't see why the timber needs to be turned over. All the mitre saws and drop saws that I have seen, including the one at the URL below, allow the blade to swing over a 90=B0 angle from 45=B0 to 135=B0, which includes the 47=BD=B0 that the OP wanted. So I don't see what the problem is, assuming the 47=BD=B0 angle is measured on the skirting after it is cut. Maybe I'm confused again, but I don't think so :)
ie 45 degrees,however you can get at least the 47 if you where to hold the lever handle in the open position but its an hard thing to do as well as cut at the same time.
Surely the angle being measured is that of the piece of timber once it is cut.
90=B0 would be the timber cut at a right angle. It is very easy to cut any angle from 45=B0 up to 135=B0, and 47=B0 is within that. However 42=B0 would be hard to cut. But that is not the OP's problem.
Put a scrap of hardboard or something behind the skirting at the end you're cutting? That said, it's always better to impose squareness and straightness on wonky rooms and back fill. As Deano says, it's the detail you see
thinking about a hand held electric circular saw, where the workpiece is laid flat and the blade is tilted over in the vertical plane. With your hand mitre saw, the workpice is held verically on edge and the blade is angled in the horizontal plane.
The OP doesn't give the depth of his skirting, but using an electric saw there's no limit. Does the hand mitre saw in your picture have the capacity to hold a 6" or deeper skirting vertically on edge?
Peter
That picture was mentioned by somebody else. I have a drop saw that can cut only a 4" skirting, and a bench saw that can cut skirting several feet high. But this is all beside the point. Most saws can easily cut an angle down to 45=B0 , so the desired 47=BD=B0 is also easy.
In my rough picture here, it's very hard to cut less than 45=B0, e.g. along the red line and very easy to cut along the green line. Remember that the OP said that his wall had a 95=B0 angle.
I think your confusion may be my mistake. The angle could actually be
85°. The wall slopes inwards not outwards. The reason I initially said 95° is that dividing by two gives an angle >45 which is impossible for most cheap mitre saws.But to be honest I am still confused. If you imagine the walls bisecting a circle then the greater angle from one wall to the other around the corner is 275°.
Graham
In that case it's an 85=B0 angle and you need to cut the skirting 42.5=B0 which is hard to do, and what I assumed in the beginning was the problem.
So if you can cut the skirting vertically in a mitre box or dropsaw, just use a spacing block and a clamp, as in this diagram.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.