Cutting a "butchers block" style worktop

[David]

Wandering around BHS the other day, we found the ideal piece of furniture to fill a gap in the kitchen. It's a trolley thing with a drawer and a heavy "butcher's block" style worktop about 5 or 6 cm thick.

Nice. The only thing is that the top is about 3cm too wide for the gap, which we knew before we bought it but which I was sure I could cut down. It just lifts off, so I can trim one side only.

Before I start, and to avoid a few weeks of life in the shed, I'd like the opinion of the collective on the best way to do this.

Are there any pitfalls in cutting a piece of thick timber composed of blocks of timber glued so that from above you're looking at end grain? I'd be using a normal handsaw rather than a power tool. Tips? (Note: I do not own, nor do I intend to acquire, an angle grinder.

Ta

David

[RubberBiker]

Perfectly possible to handsaw, however if you know *anyone* with a bandsaw, it's going to save you a good bit of work.

Buy a new hardpoint ripsaw - probably less than a fiver, if you don't have a good saw.

If you're not experienced with sawing substantial bits of hardwood, you're likely to drift off your line to some extent and will need to true up with a plane afterwards.

You may already know this - but this is how I was taught to saw:

Mark round all 4 sides. Widest (top) face upwards (so the normal upper face of the block).

Get the saw started in the back edge (furthest away from you) of the top face - just sufficiently to stop it slipping about.

Now extend the saw groove following your line across the top face, whilst avoiding going deeper at the back - concentrate all your attention on getting your groove straight across this top face.

You now have a shallow groove across the top, on your line. Now start working down the side nearest to you, whilst again going no deeper at the back - again concentrate all your attention on following that line down the front face - you're aiming to saw out a triangle i.e. the saw goes no deeper at the back, nor does it rise out - when you've finished this stage,you've cut away half the material, making (in x- section) a triangle.

Now you have a choice, either turn the job around and repeat the previous stage, or start working down at the back - but now using your already-kerfed-out groove at the front as your saw guide. Once you get to the point where all the material has been removed in the upper half of the cut, start increasing the angle of the saw - so that you end up with all the material removed to the bottom of the cut both front and back - but with a "pyramid" of material left in the middle of the cut.

Finally cut out this pyramid with the saw level - supporting the offcut as you get to the end of the cut to avoid splitting out.

Sounds elaborate - much simpler in practice. Get the line right across the top, and then down the front and you should get a square cut overall. The method completely avoids splitting out where it will be visible (top and sides), and with care when finishing, should be no more than fibres on the base.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I would handsaw it first, and then smooth with a router meself.

Trouble with handsaws, is that they are crap at cutting along the grain..

[Dave Liquorice]

Only 'cause most hand saws these days are crosscut saws not rip saws. Don't they teach anything in woodwork these days? B-) It's all in the shape, set and sharpening of the teeth.

is a fair bit of skill required but slow 'n steady letting a

*sharp* rip saw saw do the work following the method posted by RubberBiker should produce a good result. Straight from the saw will probably need a bit of smoothing but planing might not be easy across the grain.

[David]

Thanks guys. I'll sleep on it and have a go on my day off on Friday. Even if I wimp out and go to the joiners' nearby to see if they have a bandsaw, I've learnt a lot. I've certainly learnt why I'm crap at cutting in a straight line....

David

[The Medway Handyman]

Got a circular saw? Even a cheapy with a sawboard would do the job accurately. You could pick one up for £40.

[RubberBiker]

I was assuming it was too thick for a circular saw, but yes - if a CC has the depth, job done.

Even if it doesn't, cutting a groove to guide a handsaw (or turning it over and running a second groove, or possibly through cut) is another approach.

[The Medway Handyman]

A 185mm circ saw will cut about 65mm. OP said it was 5 - 6 cm thick, so should just be enough.

[Donwill]

Good advice, but don't forget to position your index finger so that it's pointing towards the tip of the blade, dont wrap it around the handle with the other four. I was given this tip by an old (now deceased) carpenter, it gives you more control on the direction of the saw blade, it works for me but it needs a bit of practice. Cheers Don

[David]

In the end took it to the excellent Shrigley Joinery, who put it through a circular saw. Far better and left my time free for lots of sanding to get the lacquer off the thing ready for oiling. And it actually fits in the gap....