This is the d-i-y range. Mine's about 15 years old, but it looks like the Rubi Star40.
of pressure to snap but, for your average floor tile, you just bring the handle down with more of a hammer action. It's all about the score line being continuous and uniform (and in the singular). Too much pressure and the cutting wheel can't turn. It's a good idea to practice with some cheap tiles or offcuts to get a feel for the thing. After half an hour you can literally do it with your eyes closed
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:
Cool - that's more like it. One of those it is and money left over for a cheaper wet saw for weird cuts.
90% of my cuts will be straight so I reckon the score and snap is going to be faster and less messy.Thanks
Tim
If you want accurate repeated cuts, take a piece of thin board, place tile in position, mark and put in some screws. Slide the whole assembly through.
The erbauer comes with a palstic guide for 45 degree cuts, handy for those iffy looking diagonal tile jobs.
NT
My Plasplugs has a similar idea - except that it is pivoted to allow most angles. Not too clever to use, though - you really need three hands. I can imagine a sliding saw type being so much easier.
There's confidence for you! Doesn't often work out that way though, unless your walls are very straight. Plenty of advice around about setting out the tiles to minimise difficult cuts and small strips on the edges etc. Worth spending time on that aspect of the job.
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:
Yes - I agree. I'm practised in that respect due to having laid strip click flooring (don't want 1cm x 2.1m of that stuff!).
In fact, I managed to set up all the walls in accurate format on Inkscape - and import pictures of our chosen wall tiles, then set "snap mode" correctly. Made doing accurate tile layouts easy and I can see where to allow so that I can get decent lumps of tiles as you say.
Handed the whole lot over to SWMBO who agreed it was an excellent way of moving the coloured tiles around to achieve her preferred pattern :)
Then I print it off and pin it to the wall as I tile - that's the theory anyway!
The wall edges should be more or less straight as the room's been replastered with edging strip.
Cheers
Tim
Good. Tiling p***ed walls emphasises the faults.
Or needs an awful lot of adhesive, which then takes forever to set. Not an option in a bathroom where you might need to fix things to the tiles asap. Doing that too soon is a sure way to crack the tile (so they say :-))
The answer is to straighten them with plaster before starting - you don't need a perfect finish and plaster goes off pretty quickly.
But this is DIY - don't rush the job. If you do chances are you'll not be happy with it. And decent tiling is for ever. ;-)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.