Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

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>>>>>>> The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any pressure on it

Ah right .Of course ..

thx Stuart

Reply to
Stuart
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The message from "shaun" contains these words:

Make it so the cove sits upright. Not hard to do, just make the gap between the sides of the box the same as one face of the cove not its diagonal length. Once it's made, drop it into whatever mitring system you already have and cut a slot for the blade. Or just mark it with a protractor and saw carefully down.

I helped Dad make on in the late 60s and we did the whole house with it using Gyproc.

Reply to
Guy King

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>>>>>>>>> The one I have is plastic and tends to spread when you put any >>>>> pressure on it

'Sloping joints' are more usually referred to as 'Scarf' joints .

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The scarf joint is not preferred when strength is required, so it is most often used in decorative situations, such as the application of trim or moulding. The scarf joint is commonly used in construction fit out tasks, including fitting of skirting, picture rails, dado rails or chair rails, handrails etc..

BTW: for coving, dado, chair rail skirting board etc ... buy a 'Magic Mitre' (QVC). It'll solve all your problems including the scarf joint.

Reply to
Brian Sharrock

In message , Guy King writes

Indeed, I use a plastic mitre box - as did my plasterer who did some of my coving as well. the coving is a bit smaller than the width of the box, but that is easily solved by fitting piece of batten etc. in of just the right width to hold it in square.

Reply to
chris French

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