Costing - Build of a 2 story extension

Hi,

I am researching the estimated cost to build a rear 2 storey extension in brick with block work to include:

2 ground floor rooms 2 Upper floor rooms

Estmated perimetter will be:

width 7 metres (width of existing propery) depth 4 metres

Cost should include, shell, roof (sloping tiled), ceilings, internal partition walls, electrics and plastering.

Anyone been there and done it?

Many thanks,

Jach

Reply to
Jach
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It's normally worked out on floor areas, you will have two floors at 7X4m, plus the width of the wall, which will be about 300mm, meaning each floor will be 7X4.3m, making the total floor area 60.2m2...prices vary depending on where you live, but expect to pay £600+ per m2, making it approx £36,120....this will probably be the cheapest estimate you will get, many charge more than £600pm2

Reply to
Phil L

Do you know what the split labour to materials is. I'd like to do the same, virtually habitable garage lower and bedroom above, but plan to do most the work myself.

Reply to
visionset

The $64,000 question, DIY or getting someone to do it?

(the former could be £10K - 15K, that latter could easily top £60K)

Reply to
John Rumm

That would probably cost less considering the garage is already there, unless the footings need replacing of course, in which case it will cost considerably more than if it was just bare land! (demolition, skips etc)

As a rough estimate, around 50-50 materials and labour...other considerations for extending upwards are that there is no concrete floor to be poured, but the garage will be left open to the elements for possibly weeks meaning that all equipment and electrics will need to be removed first (and the car!), also fireproofing if the lower part is to be used as a garage with habitation above.

If I were you, at the next opportunity dig a hole down the side of the garage and see how deep and what the foundations are constructed of, anything too flimsy and it may not be feasible depending on your budget.

Reply to
Phil L

Sounds about right for mine.

Mine was only left open overnight. Unfortunately a thunderstorm left te utility room behind the garage flooded to a depth of 4", the only wet day in the 3 weeks of construction.

If it's recent (70s onwards with 1 metre deep footings) a pour of concrete to similar depth may suffice. Earlier with 2'6" or less footings may be a problem (this is for reasonably hard clay). YMMV on other soils.

Reply to
<me9

Well, I had one built three years ago (smaller, one room up and one down, approx 4.5m square). I had serious quotes of £25k, £35k and £45k for the same work, with everything scaling (eg electrics £500, £1000, £1500, again for the same work). The most expensive company sent a proper QS round to go over my plans with me so it wasn't just a throw-away quote.

The only one I had a personal recommendation for was (as it turned out) the cheapest (phew!) and he did an excellent job.

In short the cost is less important (really!) than getting a builder on personal recommendation. The one I used doesn't advertise and is not in the Yellow Pages (he doesn't need to be).

Reply to
Bob Mannix

You have it wrong, bad wording on my part no doubt. I'm talking both storeys new build. There is an existing garage on a built up drive. I'm hoping I can cut strips in this and pour foundations without having to skip the lot. Actually I'm undecided whether to go for for the 2nd storey. Anyway subjects of future posts, but I need to start thinking about it. Most importantly I've got to find out about the costs and procedures regarding the services I can't avoid paying for. IE planning permission (unlikely to be refused) building inspection, architect ...anything else?

-- Mike W

Reply to
VisionSet

If you have drawings (sounds like you don't though), Travis Perkins will do an incredibly detailed estimate for you (materias and labour) for a modest fee. We had one done and it at least gave us a useful yardstick.

Reply to
keiron99

If there's a possibility that you'll want to go upwards off a single storey in the future, you'd be wise to get the foundations done accordingly, where the plan says 250mm of concrete, use 500mm, or you can just mass fill the footings, which is often cheaper and quicker and there should be no problems in the future when you come to build higher.

You don't need an architect and BCO visits are (or should be) free - they are paid for by council tax or some such. The drawings could cost around 5 - £600.(is this what you meant about architect?) Don't underestimate how many skips you may need, we've had 12 on this job @ £120 each. If you are intending knocking through large holes (as opposed to doorways) or are contemplating taking down a corner of the existing house, add on £1K for steelwork. Where do your existing drains and services run? - thy may have to be re-routed. If you intend having a single storey, you need to think about the height of the roof where it joins to the house, below a certain pitch (about 20deg) and it may require unduline which is both expensive and ugly, so you may have to raise up window levels upstairs if there are any in the way.

Reply to
Phil L

in article B3CLg.14596$ snipped-for-privacy@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk, Phil L at snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote on 6/9/06 16:46:

Are they really free in your area? Here in Oxford, I had to pay £200+VAT- £100 for looking at the plans, £100 for the inspections. Some builders may include these fees, but mine didn't. Nearly all builders take on the responsibility for notifying the BCO that stages have been reached and request inspections.

For Oxford City BC prices, see the last page of:

Ben

Reply to
Ben Micklem

In these parts you pay one fee for submitting a building notice or full plans (about £88 IIRC) then another fee when you start work which covers all the BCO visits etc. The fee is banded based on the estimated cost of the works. Was about £285 when I did my loft.

Possibly more if you need them on the road since some councils will charge a weekly permit fee - which can be £25

Reply to
John Rumm

I'm not sure if the householder pays these fees when the plans go in, or the person who submits the plans (the architect) adds them into his fee?

We've been getting them on the drive, but around here the permit is a tenner per skip, regardless of time.

Reply to
Phil L

Well it amounts to the same thing.... you pay in the end! When I did mine, the architect got me to write him a separate cheque for the council to go along with the plans which he posted. They then invoiced for the bigger part of the fee later.

Yup it varies greatly. Where I live it is free, and yet within a four mile radius is is variously £10, £15, and £25 depending on the borough council responsible.

Reply to
John Rumm

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