Can I run power to my cooker hood and gas hob (for ignition) from the same fused spur (assuming the combined load to be less than the maximum for the fused spur)?
I'm thinking that the need to isolate the hood from the mains to replace bulbs, clean the filters or deal with combustion of the actual hood is not likely to interfere with my use of the hob.
TIA Richard
"Richard Savage" wrote | Can I run power to my cooker hood and gas hob (for ignition) from the | same fused spur (assuming the combined load to be less than the maximum | for the fused spur)?
Yes, from the load side of the fuse in the FCU. The load of the ignition sparker and the hood should be well within 3A, so you probably won't need to fuse down separately.
| I'm thinking that the need to isolate the hood from the mains to replace | bulbs, clean the filters or deal with combustion of the actual hood is | not likely to interfere with my use of the hob.
Probably not. (You're expecting your hood to combust?)
Owain
I cant see any need to isolate the hood from the mains just to change the filters . Nor for changing the lightbulb-just make sure the switch on the hood is "off". Stuart
Nor can I but the installers will not connect the hood direct to the ring main.
Rgds Richard
On Tue, 11 May 2004 19:31:07 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Richard Savage strung together this:
That's because it's what the regs say. Something along the lines of each fixed appliance shall be served by a DP isolator. Also, as a cooker hood is usually 3A, and a ring is 32A, there's not much chance of the MCB blowing until the kitchens on fire.
Any appliance connected to the ring main needs to be protected by a fuse - either in a plug or FCU. It's common to connect cooker hoods to the lighting circuit where no separate fuse is needed.
Appliances with motors have to have separate isolators, so you can maintain them with no risk of motor starting.
On Wed, 12 May 2004 08:15:05 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Dave Plowman strung together this:
So common in fact, that in all my years as an electrician I've never seen one connected to a lighting circuit. You still need an isolator though, and if the destructions say 3A fuse max, a 6\10A MCB won't do, and technically invalidates the warranty.
That's electricians for you - no imagination. In many cases it's easier to access a lighting circuit than the ring due to the position.
And just how would they know what fuse was fitted?
On Wed, 12 May 2004 15:35:57 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Dave Plowman strung together this:
They're better of on the ring, when the bulb blows it doesn't take a
32A MCB out, it more than likely will on a 6A, or with any other minor fault type condition.
I did say technically. Although if one of the manufacturers happened to send an engineer out, then.... And yes, I know it's very unlikely but technically.
Well, given a lighting circuit has a few bulbs that will blow anyway, I can't see the problem with one more.
It's only a suggestion if it makes the wiring easier, as it might in some cases. Not enough to start WW3 over.
On Wed, 12 May 2004 19:19:26 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Dave Plowman strung together this:
True.
I think I was justifying my own reasoning really, I'll stick to putting them on the ring but a lighting cct is a perfectly acceptable solution also. There, WW3 avoided!
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