Converting wardrobe doors to bifold

[Windmill]

There are four half doors (two pairs) on a built in wardrobe which extend too far into a bedroom when opened, meaning that the two single beds have to be jammed together. And it's a very small bedroom.

The obvious cure is to use bifold doors.

I thought it would be fairly easy to cut the doors in half, but having removed them I now see that they're pre-manufactured doors with some kind of wooden surround, not hardboard nailed over a frame as I had thought.

I think from the weight that they're hollow, and from the rigidity that there's some kind of light stiffening material (cardboard?) inside.

I've been assuming that it would be possible to just add a vertical strip maybe 2 x 1" into each cut end, but before I start, maybe I should ask if anyone has tried this!

[Nick Odell]

Of course it's difficult to judge without seeing a picture but would sliding doors work? Or removing the doors and adding a curtain rail?

Nick

[fred]

If they are torsion box construction (egg boxes) after you cut them to size you'd best insert a strip of wood the width between the leaves and glue it in position. You can then glue your strip of wood cut to the total width o n to this. If you're handy and have a router then just cut a piece to total width and run a suitable rebate up each side.

[dennis]

I have done similar when shortening a door which required removing the strip at the top.

Its not hard to do as long as there is no special finish on the door.

You will probably have to rip the wood strip down to the correct size, its unlikely to be something you can buy in B&Q.

The doors will be narrower by the kerf of the saw, but that may not be enough depending on the hinges, etc.

Maybe you should make them sliding doors instead?

[Roger Mills]

They sound like fairly standard internal doors, with hardboard on both faces, a soft-wood frame and a cardboard honeycomb insert for stiffening.

If you cut them down the middle, you'll need to remove some of the honeycomb and glue a piece of wood into each half - whose thickness is the same as the gap between the two bits of hardboard.

You'll have to make a strong job of that, because your bi-fold hinges will need to attach to this new timber.

I've never done that particular operation, but I have needed to shorten doors by more than the width of the frame, and so have had to glue some new framing in.

[Windmill]

I'm not quite sure why you're suggesting a two-step procedure (maybe there's some subtlety I don't understand?). I thought to insert a piece of wood about 2" x 1" x into the cut ends. Why would I need two pieces?

Sort of. But I'm no craftsman. The stuff I do is usually overly strong, functional, but by no means pretty (and I can't draw straight freehand lines or cut straight without a little bit of wavering somehow creeping in).

Yes, though used only once to crudely repair a floorboard someone (not me; some unknown tradesman in a rush!) had cut *between* the joists.

Are you suggesting something slightly thicker than the door, grooved on each edge to accept the ends of the hardboard panels? There appears to be an existing surround which is slightly thicker than the main hardboard part of the door, so I suppose you're suggesting something similar. But not I think necessary unless for additional strength. I will of course need to insert something for the hinges to screw into.

[Windmill]

Both would work, but the curtain rail wouldn't be too attractive. Sliding doors would certainly work, and maybe I should have thought of that first. Much less work, I'd imagine. But having bought the kit for folding doors, I'm trying hard to convince myself (rationalise!) that they will be best.

[Windmill]

I already bought the folding door kit, but I should have asked for suggestions first :-(

[Windmill]

That's roughly what I thought would be needed. Maybe epoxy glue; maybe a metal L bracket at top and bottom, joining the new wood to the existing wood, maybe a row of small woodscrews along the edges, through the hardboard and into the new wood.

Probably won't be pretty, but a coat of paint should help.

[Chris J Dixon]

If you wanted to cap the assembly so that it looked like a solid edge, rather than revealing the way it was done. Depending on the finish, filler and paint could well achieve the same result. It's not as if it is your front door. :-)

Chris

[Roger Mills]

Use escutcheon pins rather than screws - mainly on the wardrobe site, with just 2 or 3 on the room side - and they'll hardly show at all.