Confused and need help on drywall v plastering

[cabsandy]

Hi all, I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group as to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the diffferent terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock, wallboard being the same thing-yes?).

So I get the sheets up, attach them to the studs.I then need to "tape" the joints-once I have done this, I need to use joint filler, not plaster, to give a smooth finish-this prevents cracking in future life-am I right so far?

This is the bit that really confuses me-reading some of the stuff on the web, drywall boards are a replacement for plaster? If this is so, then why do I see diyer's/trademan's then covering these boards? What are they putting on-is it plaster or some sort of other material? Looking through my local DIY store , I see bags of plaster on one side and one the other side, similar looking bags but which seem to be gypsum (I'm guessing this is related to the drywall sheets)

What do you need (do you really need to do it is the question I need answered?),to prepare a drywall/gypsum sheet for matt painting, once they are up and tape jointed?Can they be used bare or do you need this "other stuff"? Sorry if this seems a bit noddy but I'm generally confused as to the proper approach

Thanks

Sandy

[Grunff]

Also (most commonly) known as plasterboard in the UK.

Not necessarily - it depends.

If you use square edged sheets, then you need to skim the whole wall. Skimming means applying a layer of plaster, about 3mm thick, to the whole wall.

If you use taper edged sheets, then you can just fill + sand, without skimming.

No, not really - they are a board building material.

Because that's how you achieve a good finish.

There are different types of plaster - the stuff you use for skimming is commonly known as multi-finish.

If you use taper edge boards, you can just fill, sand, then paint (with dilute emulsion to start).

If you use square edge boards you need to skim first.

[Bob Mannix]

ALL plasterboard looks better if it is skimmed with plaster (generally "Thistle" finish plaster).

Plasterboard is used for stud partition walling and for "dry-lining" masonry walls. Dry lining is quick, not so messy and has some insulating properties. It is s**te to fix things to.

The best finish for masonry walls is a two coat wet finish. The top coat is always finish plaster (like for the boards) which can be brought to a very flat finish. The undercoat is either sand & cement (cheaper and good for uniform walls) or bonding plaster (covers anything).

Generally plasterboard is put up "ivory" side out for taping and decorating (no finish plaster) and "grey" side out for skimming. IMHO taping and filling (screw/nail holes, damage etc) will never give as good a finish as skimming.

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Most of the questions have been answered.

Do yourself a favour... Make a not how far each batens are apart starting the measurement from either end of one wall,also if you can knock a few noggins in at diefferent intervals up the wall. This reduces the headache afterwards trying to find a stud or nogging afterwards when trying hang/affix something to the wall. ;-)

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

:-)

Plastering must be getting to me. :-(

[cabsandy]

Thanks all for the quick and great replies-much appreicated

One final question and an observation-I'm going to be working in a confined space so I've got 1200mm by 600mm (9.5mm thick) boards. I know this , again, is a thick question, so bear with me but the tapered edge (which I think is what I have) are "rounded" at either side of th 600mm width-very slightly, but they are.The top and bottom of the sheets are exposed-they are completly square-you also have the paper on one side, and not the other. Is this taper edge boards?

Observation-it seems to depend on opinion as to whether you need to skim or not on taper edge boards.But the general agreement is that if you do, you get a smoother finish?

Thanks

Sandy

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Tapered edge is only on one side of the PB and is a complete tapered edge,not rounded.

[nafuk]

Buy a Collins or Readers Digest DIY book. They explain all this and more.

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

[Grunff]

You should really use 12.5mm boards for walls - 9.5mm is quite flimsy.

Do you mean they are tapered? They are not rounded.

Sorry, I don't understand. Perhaps some photos?

Not really - the reason taper edge boards exist is so you don't have to skim - that is the sole reason behind the product. You can skim them if you want, but if you're going to skim it's easier to use square edged boards.

Skimming does give a nicer finish, yes.

[<me9]

Try this site. It has all the information (except prices) that you could need.

Sort of.

There are various options, taping, filling and finishing is the easiest to get a good finish, but others will advocate skimming. The site above will give details of both. particularly for board finishing see

For the methods available see the white book, but the site guide is the definitive guide on how to do it.

[<me9]

No, the taper is a reduction of thickness of a mm or so for about 50 mm on th finish side of the board. They are intended to be used as storey height boards,so there is no joint on the shorter edges.

I would certainly recommend for ease of handling (but more joints) 900mm width boards rather than 1200, particularly for ceilings.

Personally I would tape and fill, make sure the boards are level when you fit them, accurate preparation of the framing/dabs makes the job easier.

Wet plastering is messier, and needs different skills and the correct timing of the stages. Joint filling can be done one at a time, with the finishing later, and with the right materials not as critical on timing.

A good wade through the british gypsium site will give you some ideas.

[cabsandy]

Point taken on board-the only reason for the 9.5mm was that all the

12.5mm were too big in length to get in the van.Plus the wall is not a major wall-just something in the garage to partion off some bits and pieces

My fault-I think the word tapered is confusing me.Tapered , to me, means one end is smaller than the other.These sheets are the same at either side, just dont seem as "sharp ast the top and bottom.They are standard sheets from the local B&Q,1200 by 600mm

Ack-I'm going to practise on some spare boards-it was one of the reasons for doing it in the first place.Thanks for your input m8-much appreciated

[Grunff]

Tapered boards have a region around 2 inches wide which gently reduces from full thickness to around 2/3rds thickness. The region is well defined, and impossible to miss.

Square edged boards are the same uniform thickness from one side to the other.

At the sides, the paper wraps round to the back, for both types of board.

Most welcome.

[Stuart Noble]

Sounds like the OP doesn't have the tapered boards but you can always cut your own taper with a stanley knife to flatten ridges

[wexnz]

No it isn't, there is only one side that is used, it's the side that doesn't have the words "plaster other side" printed on it. They print that onto the back of the plasterboard for people who don't know what they are doing.

[Bob Mannix]

oooh. Cutting! Interesting except that... many sites and books and ng threads from a few years ago held to my expressed opinion (which dates from back then, in my defence). Also none of my plasterboard ever had "plaster other side" written on it.

Manufacturer's sites confirm your point (which I accept is now correct - sorry to the OP) by saying use the ivory side for everything. I would say (and from experience know) that, in fact, you use the ivory side for decorating (obviously) but, in the absense of instructions to the contrary, it doesn't actually matter which side you use for skimming.

However, I stand corrected.

[Christian McArdle]

Actually, it really doesn't matter for skimming, except that if you use taper edge boards, you must put it ivory side outwards as you would be putting the taper up to the stud, so the board wouldn't lay flat and might undulate or snap off.

I've always used the ivory side, but if I had accidentally put a board on backwards, I wouldn't have bothered to "fix" it.

Christian.

[Christian McArdle]

Yes, but you needn't have bothered. You can only tape and fill if you either have the boards tapered all round (never seen this) or if the boards are in a run so that the top and bottom of the boards never butt up. As this is not the case, you're going to have to skim anyway.

Christian.

[wexnz]

Actually it does, for reasons of safety, especially on ceilings. The manufacture of plasterboard involves pouring the plaster onto the face paper first where it adheres to the fibres in the paper, the backing paper is then dropped onto the plaster but doesn't bond as well, this doesn't matter as it's not designed to. If you put the plasterboard on the wrong way then the face that is holding the plaster isn't very secure and can come away, coupled with the water soaking it gets from the plastering, any fixings used to hold the plasterboard in place can pull through slightly weakening it's support of the plasterboard.

Plasterboard is designed to fit the specific purpose it's meant to be used for, using it outside of that specification is incorrect and potentially dangerous.

In this age of litigation, when a ceiling or wall falls down and hurts someone or damages property due to "back to front" plasterboard fixing, the blame cannot be put on British Gypsum as they print the words "plaster other side" on their plasterboard, it's the person who can't be bothered to "fix" it who is liable.

You should get some knowledge about plasterboard before giving out advice on it's use.

[Lobster]

I've always had my plasterboard skimmed... I can't imagine you'd be able to get an even halfway decent result otherwise (unless wallpapering afterwards), but can't say I've ever tried. Is it really acceptable - assuming an emulsion finish?

David