Compound Mitre Saw

re kinzo

right.

another

There is one thing I found a pain about the kinzo, as long as youre aware of it you can work around it, but I guess it could produce wonky cuts if you didnt notice. The base is metal on plastic, so if you lean on it it bends. The base stays in alignment with the cutter, but not in alignment with the workbench - so if your long workpiece is supported at the other end on something, you need to watch it doesnt shift out of line when you lean on the wood to hold it wood firm so it doesnt move during cut... too little pressure and the wood can move, to much and as the workpiece moves with the base, it might touch something and be limited in its movement, and thus be out of alignment with the base. IOW you need to watch the sticking out end of wood, make sure it doesnt stop against something when its pressed onto the metal baseplate, as it will move a little.

Its a bit basic, very noisy, no dust extraction option etc, but as long as you pay attention it will produce straight clean repeatable cuts.

If you cut a wedge shaped piece of wood you can extend its cutting angle range beyond 45 degrees: a 20 degree piece of wood placed behind the workpiece will give you another 20 degrees to play with, etc.

PS yes there is a dust extract hole, but it wont work. Big deal.

Must be the most cheaparse lowdown power tool I've ever bought, but its quite ok for the job, so I'd kinda recommend it.

NT

Reply to
bigcat
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I've got the PPPro 300mm one which uses twin sliding bars. It doesn't slide easily so I just regard it as an easy means of adjustment rather than an operational feature. Other than that it's a pretty rigid and accurate saw, and I reckon good value at around 100 quid. It will cut at

90 degrees 12" wide shelving etc which I think the minimum requirement to be of much use for this sort of tool.
Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I made a mitre saw table with side supports from thick MDF it looks a bit like this on the front elevation:

H HHHHHHHH HHHHHHHH HHHHHHHH H ###### BBBBTTTTTTTTTTTBBBB ###### # # BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB # # #################################

H = MDF table B = saw base T = saw turntable H = saw head and blade assy

It might help reduce the flexing, if I understand what you are getting at.

I use the table mainly to get a extra support for longer stock and it makes the whole thing a bit more stable on uneven surfaces etc and its wide enough (approx 1m IIRC) to put on top of a couple of saw horses for short/medium length stock.

On day I might get around to adding some sort of exstendible support / stop mechanism...

HTH,

Alex.

Reply to
AlexW

I've been in the home refurb trade for three years now and my B&Q sliding mitre saw has worked fine for me. It cuts up to 12" skirting no problem and Dado without to many splinters.Its a bit loud and jerky.I will probably upgrade at some point but for DIY use you can't knock it.

Reply to
martin_roscoe

I've just ordered the Makita LS1040F from Axminster. A bit more than I wanted to spend but hopefully it'll last a good few years.

Thanks for all your help and advice.

Cheers

Reply to
RayDavis

supported

getting at.

Ahh, clever. I changed the H to # above for anyone else. So if your mdf table has blocks underneath the saw base, so that the turntable rests on the blocks rather than on its own plastic feet, there would be no flexing at all. I might try that.... then again I need 100 round tuits already!

Is anyone selling tuits? I want to place a bulk order.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

ooops ... ta.

Probably seen this....

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sure about bulk rates though!

Alex.

Reply to
AlexW

wow,seriuosly cheap, I thought they were going to be a couple of hundred each. I've ordered 100. Must be the best online bargain ever.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

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