Component level repair and desoldering

I don't think that anyone is suggesting detailed fault finding techniques for digital electronics.

(which while not actually a massively difficult task with the right equipment, its very easy to find yourself twiddling knobs on several hundred grands worth of it in the process, which tends to put much of it beyond most folks DIY budgets)

At the simplest level, a hell of allot of kit can be saved just by spotting the caps that are bulging and spewing electrolyte all over the place. If you want to get a bit deeper, then you can do plenty with a multimeter, and even relatively specialist bits of kits like LCR component analysers or ESR meters are not that expensive.

(I don't agree that ukdiy falls down on diagnosis either particularly - we have some very good engineers here with plenty of experience in relevant fields. That does not mean that all contributions or all advice will be spot on, but its no reason to write it off either)

That works for many boards, but not all. In some cases a typical iron delicate enough for the size of task can't supply the heat on a multilayer board. That's where the hot air systems work well, either to temper an area of board to give the iron a chance, or more typically on their own just to reflow the obscured hole so it can be sucked clean.

Reply to
John Rumm
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Good to have some actual feedback. May treat myself!

Reply to
Bob Eager

A danger of taking the through-hole plating off if it's a tight fit? Especially in a multi-layer board.

Reply to
Bob Eager

example:

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(I'm not sure I believe the listed temperature of '150' there)

We've got exactly that model at work, and it's an excellent machine.

Very quiet in normal operation.

It has the disconcerting (but really very good) feature of - when you switch it *off* - of turning the air feed rate to a noisy maximum for a minute or so to cool itself down.

Reply to
dom

no use if the component you are trying to fit has multiple legs.

Reply to
charles

In message , geoff wrote

Not in my experience. Solder is the only thing holding the component on the board on 99.99% of commercial gear.

There may be board coatings on boards for the military market which make rework almost impossible for those with out the right tools.

The only time I've seen glue used is when a physically very large component has been fitted and the manufacturer has used a "blob" of glue to bond to component case to the board to prevent differential physical movement - to help prevent vibration failures.

Reply to
Alan

The first SMPS I came across on a domestic product was in a VHS, and the caps on that failed. It was made by Panasonic. so I'd guess they didn't buy in dodgy caps.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

John Rumm formulated on Friday :

One of my favourite techniques for de-soldering, where the PCB will allow it, is to heat up the solder joint and then quickly give the PCB a sharp rap on the edge of the bench. Inertia then causes the hot solder to keep going and which then leaves the component lead free to be removed.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Not so. Most are glued in place as part of the manufacturing process then flow soldered.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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Desoldering braid. Like co-ax braid but loaded with rosin (although I think there is also a plain braid). Flux, either a bottle of wet for use with a cocktail stick or artists brush or a pen type. Mechanical pencil. Clears the wet hole. Tip cleaner, wetting and fluxing. The greater the cleaned surface area of the tip, the more solder it will draw. Bulb type sucker, which can be reserved for blowing. They don't have the draw capacity of the sprung syringe but they are easier and quicker to place because the hand may be stabilised by resting upon the board. Scrapers and point tools, to remove dry blobs. I also like to use a gas iron which seems to have a higher heating rate on a small bit, and I can switch hands without bothering with a wire or getting my snozzle over the work.

Reply to
thirty-six

any fault finding for any electronics would be a move forward for the beginner

A problem I see here too often is a series of people simply taking wild guesses. Its an approach that simply doesnt work often when you're faced with an electronic system using 100s of parts.

For beginners to electronic repair I'd suggest

  1. getting a multimeter
  2. understanding that both power and signals flow through the circuit stage by stage
  3. Using the meter to spot where power or signal fails to be there, thus narrowing the fault down to a specific small area of circuit., usually. I say usually as eg CRT TV PSUs can be extremely interlinked with other parts of the tv.

NT

Reply to
NT

Its slightly less common than it was, since solder paste is now almost universally used, and that tends to hold components in place until soldering. On the earlier surface mount stuff where it was flow soldered (usually on the "chip wave" rather than in the main bath) they had to be glued fairly well else they would simply fall off the board once it was inverted and fed through the wave.

Conformal coatings don't always make it much harder to remove and replace stuff (although some are a right pig!), but it can be a pain getting the coating back in place properly.

Wogging as GEC used to call it...

(real vibration situations would usually call for stuff being tied down, or clamped in place. Often with holes designed into the boards to make that possible - or sometimes by fixing to the heat ladder when there is one)

Reply to
John Rumm

Perhaps there are two articles here - one on fault finding and one on service technique?

Perhaps not, but we are talking about a guide to method and technique here, so that does not need to apply!

Indeed, and probably a good example of kit one ought not encourage the inexperienced to go poking about in since they can bite...

Reply to
John Rumm

I never used to be a fan of braid in the exclusively through hole days, but its certainly quite handy on SM boards...

Not as common as they once were... The point about lower height is a good one though. I tend to use an Antex Mini de-soldering pump for that very reason - its easier to use with the hand resting on the board.

Yup, they can be good... (although the last really difficult board I had, even that would not re-flow the joint!)

Reply to
John Rumm

Element burnouts in months of "all day" use, or early failures?

Reply to
John Rumm

I recall that in the olden days (if films were to be believed) if you were stranded on a desert island with a radio set then you could convert it to a transmitter!

Seriously, we are getting less able to repair or make items that can interface with modern systems.

Reply to
DerbyBoy

They are expensive, but a proper vacuum desolder set is invaluable for serious DIY. Older ones can be bought quite cheaply secondhand - but take up much more room than modern ones.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

That was probably too old to have had the dodgy caps, but very many reputable manufacturers ended up with dodgy caps, because they weren't known about, and worked fine to start with so tested out OK in QA. It takes a while (often years) for the hydrogen to separate out and kill them.

I first came across this in 2005, when I worked for a company with lots of Dell servers, which were dying left right and centre. Dell came in a replaced all the motherboards at their expense. You could see the swolen capacitors all around the processor - they are the ones which smooth out the very low voltage supply just after the on-board switched mode regulators.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Me neither, but along with a heavy duty iron, they mop up quite quick in power areas. I'll be straight with you, it's 15 years since I held any repair contract for part-time work.

Apparently not even worth mentioning when I was at college in 1983

It's their speed of application which is their stronghold, for large joints use a syringe which will generate more suction..

I've 3 and the common one I go to has an equivalent capacity of 75W, the largest bit is possibly less than 1/4". It certainly seems at least as good as a 75W electric and it is smaller and lighter. It's a while since I've held a 75 or 80W iron because they have bits which are too big in general but even so, I believe that the small gas iron has a greater thermal gain than the stated electric equivalent, not like 125W but certainly seems more than 75-80W. Guess 95-105W

Reply to
thirty-six

Another godsend is a decent illuminated magnifier. I got one of the anglepoise style ones with a circular fl tube recent - fantastic bit of kit ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

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