Completely serious angle grinder question

[Adrian]

OK... Angle grinder basics...

WEAR GOGGLES. ALWAYS. I MEAN... ALWAYS.

They can bite. They can really bite.

When you first switch 'em on, there can be quite a kick of torque. Be ready.

They take a little while to spin down after switching off. This is when I usually catch something I didn't intend to and didn't want to.

If you're using a cutting disc, always use the edge, not the face, and never be tempted to try to grind with it.

Cut or grind at the wrong angle, and you will get vicious kickback. Be prepared.

Don't try and "flex" a thin cutting disc. If you drop it, and you think the disc hit the ground anything more than trivially, bin the disc. You REALLY don't want bits of disc flying around.

If you've been cutting bolts or anything particularly solid and metal, the piece WILL be hot. Hotter than you think. For longer than you think. Much hotter and longer... Don't pick it up.

Others can probably fill in the gaps, especially when it comes to slate - I tend to use 'em on steel.

Probably because they're not trying to cater for every language in one manual, since the branding (and manual) is UK-only...

I still wouldn't trust even the best-written manual in the world to show me how to use a potentially very dangerous power tool, though - and a good manual can lead you into a false sense of security.

[fred]

In article , Bert Coules writes

I have to agree with you there, the instructions should be clear and unambiguous, and not require you to go on a training course (either in tool handling or confusicon interpretation).

On the subject of fitting the guard or not, I would heartily recommend that you do. If you do then you have an extra place to rest valuable (gloved) fingers against when holding (always use 2 hands on the beast) and if you don't then it is all too easy for a hand to get too close or to slip.

I have had to use an angle grinder without a guard in the past for access reasons but IMV it would be foolish not to use it where you feasibly could.

[Bert Coules]

Adrian, thanks for that. I had in fact done my own online research into the basics but it's good to have them repeated.

I wouldn't expect an instruction manual to be a substitute for proper training or professional advice, but I would expect it to cover the absolute fundamentals. I'm really rather shocked that the Bosch does not.

Bert

[charles]

it's there so that you can undo the securing nut without the spindle turning.

[charles]

The spindle lock is no more a control than the wheel brace is on a car.

[Bert Coules]

An interesting viewpoint. Given that the spindle lock directly affects - which is to say, controls - whether or not the spindle rotates, I'm inclined to disagree with you.

Bert

[Bert Coules]

Thanks, but in fact I wouldn't have considered otherwise, even when I thought there was no Allen key; I have plenty.

Though the situation is rather muddled by the manual showing a completely different design of guard than the one actually supplied. Caused by it covering several different machines of course, but a bit of clear labeling and captioning would make all the difference.

Bert

[Bert Coules]

Charles,

As I realised eventually, and as others have kindly explained. But it should still be in the damn manual.

Bert

[Harry Bloomfield]

125mm is much more useful I find and they last longer. They are not quite so common, but they can be found.

[charles]

I don't think that mine ever had a manual.

[Bert Coules]

Charles,

It depends, I suppose, on just what sort sort of purchaser any particular model is aimed at. The Bosch is labelled "Professional" but even professionals have to be first-time buyers at some stage, or so you might think.

Bert

[Adrian]

It's probably more akin to using the wheelbrace before jacking the car up.

[charles]

The first one I used was hired. I think I got a quick "how to use it" chat from the chap beind the counter.

[Adrian]

First one I used was at a mate's workshop, probably. I think I got pointed vaguely in the right direction of where to find it.

[Adam Funk]

Wow, I had no idea about all that!

[GB]

I've never tried, but does spindle lock on and start the motor simply burn out the motor?

Personally, I disconnect from mains before changing discs. Me = wimp, but with both my hands and all my teeth intact.

[Simon Brown]

Its there to lock the spindle so you can unscrew the thing that allows you to change the disk.

IMO its better to not lock the motor on in a situation where you can drop it and have it keep going after being dropped.

But sometimes, particularly when using it to grind off stuff from freshly welded metal, its more convenient to lock the motor on because that allows you to move the whole thing around better when you don't have to hold the switch in.

True. But there are plenty of youtube videos explaining that basic stuff and that is arguably better than any printed manual can be.

[Adrian]

Stall it, yes. Injure you, probably.

[tabbypurr]

ports he's had for nearly 20 years and is still going strong). Power Devil were red, and ceased to exist as a brand many years ago, so the likelihood of Bert buying one is fairly remote.

sed to buy the same Chinese OEM models but obviously in their own colours. The

I'd be curious to see the evidence for that. Feedback I've heard is very di fferent.

NT

[tabbypurr]

Yup. When you change discs. You'll soon know when you go to do it.

Your choice.

They're self explaining when you use the tool for real.

NT