Combi boiler - low pressure output?

We've just had a WB 40 CDi combi installed into a house that was previously a standard boiler/tank/cylinder affair. The short story is that we can't run a bath and shower off it at the same time (I don't mean that the pressure drops off a bit on the shower - it actually stops). Various plumbers and even the WB site itself would indicate that you can't expect to do everything at once on a combi, but I did expect more when just two outlets were opened.

Any ideas why this might be and/or what can we do?

[big detailed description]

Of course there was no existing pipework for the hot water from the boiler position, but luckily there was both a hot and a cold 15mm pipe right under it as that's where the washing machine is.

The plumber has used these (thus reversing the old hot flow - presumably the cold is the same as it always was as the washing machine would have been plumber off the mains). The 22mm pipe that used to come out of the cylinder has been capped above the airing cupboard floor (we'll be taking it into the loft later to drop down as a shower). The 15mm mains feed to the old cylinder has been spliced into the remains of the 22mm pipe from the loft tank to the taps and likewise a spur capped above the floor for the later shower. We haven't had the taps/mixers replaced as we're doing the bathrooms later this year, so the bath/shower mixers are still the old 22mm-feed ones. The plan is to have a shower in the ensuite and a both/shower in the bathroom.

The cold water pressure is excellent, even through though those bath/ shower mixers. So I can run the cold into the bath and a cold shower at a good rate for both.

The hot pressure is a lot less than expected. We did expect a drop in pressure if you were running both, but the current situation is that running the hot into the bath leads to not enough pressure to keep the shower on in the ensuite.

If I run the sink tap in the bathroom instead of the bath mixer (my attempt to simulate drawing off water through a 15mm bath pipe), we do still get some pressure out of the shower. It's reasonable, although right at the bottom of my expectations/hopes pre boiler install.

Another plumber that we've had around to quote for kitchen work expressed surprise at the flow when he saw just the bath turned on.

Any general comments would be appreciated, but I've a few specific questions (which may or may not be pertinent):

  1. 22mm pipes. I'm not sure as chipboard floors are preventing me easily checking, but I believe that the 15mm hot out of the boiler probably becomes a 22mm pipe under the 1st floor and then into the bath mixers. Might that be the problem?

  1. Length. I'm pretty sure that the cold supply to the boiler is fine as the cold tap in the cloakroom (just before the boiler in the scheme of things) belts out water. The total length of the hot supply from the boiler to the bath mixers is probably 15m+ (all on ground/ first floors). To give you an idea, the kitchen tap (which is probably closer to 20m from the boiler in pipe length) takes ~60 seconds to heat up if it hasn't been used for a whilee. Forgetting it's bore for the moment, might the length of the pipes be an issue pressure/flow rate wise?

  2. Kitchen tap. Whilst we're doing the kitchen, we're having the ceiling down. We thought it would make sense to run a hot feed from the boiler the ~5m to the kitchen tap, which will presumably reduce the time-till-hot to a perfectly fine 10-20 seconds. Might it also make sense to carry that 15mm feed up into the bathrooms to try to solve our pressure/flow problem?

It's worth noting that although some plumbers expressed concern at switching to a combi for the house, British Gas were quite happy to install effectively the same boiler rebadged. Presumably that wouldn't be the case if it was a total no-brainer bad idea :) .

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Reply to
Bromley86
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Not *that* surprised. Combi's are really designed to run showers. Unless it's a massive combi, a typical bath flow would take water at the maximum rate the combi could heat it, leaving no flow left over for the [higher resistance] shower. The usually reasonable assumption is that baths are infrequent these days and as long as the combi can run one, the fact that you can't take a shower at the same time is irrelevant as it won't often be a problem. Stored water systems have no maximum flow but run out, combis are flow limited but never run out. For perfect results you need a massive installation of either! FWIW if you take a lot of deep baths, a combi isn't for you. If several inhabitants in turn tend to take long showers (ie teenagers) then a stored water system isn't for you! There are, of course fancier hybrid systems available which you can look in the archives for.

Reply to
Bob Mannix

The size of the pipework is irrelevant. The bigger bore pipes will hold a greater volume of water (and cause a slightly longer dead-leg of cold water to come through before hot) but offer less resistance than 15mm.

The problem is that the boiler can't deliver hot water at the rate you require it, and the limited flow is going to the path of least resistance - the bath tap.

If you restricted the bath tap a bit (try with it half open) you'd probably get a bit of flow to the shower - but unlikely enough to mix with cold and give a decent shower performace.

As Bob said - it's a side effect of a combi. The hot water won't run out but the trade off is poorer flow than stored HW.

Alan.

Reply to
Alan

Quite so, at least these days we don't have to keep spelling out that "one size does NOT fit all".

For a complete understanding you would need to measure a lot of things.

Essentially there is a restriction on the flow of HW which the bath tap aggravates to a serious extent.

I and others can offer office chair speculations which can be much more accurate if there are some numbers. Like ... Standing pressure of mains cold. Flow rate of cold and hot at kitchen sink. Flow rate of cold and hot at bath. Flow rate of cold and hot at shower.

With a 40kW combi you really should be able to run a shower and bath together.

My best guess without numbers is that the DHW flow through the boiler is limited (it may have an adjustment) so as to get a reasonable temperature on the bath taps. The bath taps are probably something that looks pathetic unless there is a fire hose behind them, (the mixer types with a elongated oval bell mouth spout are dire at _looking_ effective). Putting a restriction on the bath HW supply and remving all other restrictions is the way forward. 15mm pipe is not a restriction unless kinked.

Reply to
Ed Sirett

Before you go any further check the gas rate with the hot water all on full and compare with the specification for the boiler. Should be recorded on the Benchmark. Its possible that the DHW cold feed has been restricted and the gas rate is limiting. With hot water on full what is the indicated temperature for the hot water?

The problems you are experiencing are typical for a combi unfortunately.

Jim A

Reply to
Jim Alexander

I can't see a gas flow rate (or anything in m^3/h) on the Benchmark or the Eurotron "receipt". The tech specs say it should be 4.2 m^3/h. I've got a Corgi plumber (not the same one) coming around on Monday. Is it a quick & easy test for him to perform if I give him advance warning tomorrow?

I know that they did test the gas as Transco came out to replace the ? regulator? (or something similar on the meter side - I remember some explanation about how otherwise there was a chance that when the boiler came on the gas to the hob might cut out).

It rose to 62* after running it for a minute or so.

Thanks

Reply to
Bromley86

Thanks for the other info. Might it help if we ran a the hot from the boiler, via the kitchen sink (never in use at the same time as the bath &/or shower) to the shower and then the bath? The old spur would be used for the cloakroom only and capped off there.

The shower would be nearer the boiler (in pipe terms) than the bath then. Or doesn't pressure work that way?

Reply to
Bromley86

Without getting into the specifics yet (I've seen some other threads on the subject ;) ), are we talking about things like pressurised cylinders and heat banks here?

Reply to
Bromley86

Not necessarily. There are storage combis which have an internal cylinder storing heating water at 80 degrees. This is used to heat the potable water using a heat exchanger. The point of this is to be able to deliver a lot of heat quickly to cold water for a period of time. That time will be short because the amount of heat exceeds that being produced by the burning of gas in the boiler.

In essence there are like a packaged boiler and heatbank. They will deliver a greater flow rate for a period of time but then fall back to the rate being produced natively by the boiler. Really you have to work back from the flow rate and temperature you need and the temperature of cold mains (can be 5 degrees in winter). These will tell you how much running time you will have at the higher flow rate before the performance drops off.

A packaged appliance may meet your needs. The challenge becomes the size which of course is influenced by the amount of HW needed in time T.

Beyond a certain point it goes beyond what will fit into a box the size of a washing machine and one can then go for a storage system of some kind being conventional (pressurised or not), heat bank or thermal store.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Different test. A gas rate test is bread and butter only involves an eyeball on the meter and a watch. Ask for it specifically.

That's a reasonable maximum but if its 62deg in April by late summer the gas will *definately* be limiting as the cold feed warms. You could chose a different setup which gives you more flow at the expense of temperature in winter but would always be able to get full set temperature by turning down the hot tap.

Jim A

Reply to
Jim Alexander

I posted this last night but it seems to have got lost. Glad I saved a copy!

Sorry, not sure how to do this one. "It belts out" is the best that I can do :) .

Bearing in mind I was using a bucket to measure: COLD 11.5 lts/min HOT 13.2 lts/min Benchmark says 14 lts/min, for what it's worth. Not sure where that was tested. The kitchen cold is nearest to the stopcock but has never been great; the kitchen hot furthest from the boiler (and the pipe is kinked). I'm guessing that someone has fallen onto the tap at some point which may account for the wierd cold reading (and the hot kink).

COLD 37.5 lts/min HOT 12.8 lts/min

COLD 24 lts/min HOT 11.5 lts/min Remember this is actually a bath mixer. The readings on the taps into the bath were: COLD 33 lts/min HOT 12 lts/min

I've added a few other measurements that might help:

  • Flow rate of hot shower when cold bath running. COLD BATH 30 lts/min (c.f. 37.5 by itself) HOT SHOWER 8 lts/min
  • Flow rate of hot shower in ensuite when hot sink in bathroom on (hot sink by itself is 11.8 lts/min). HOT SHOWER 2 lts/min (measured with a 1/2 lt jug as I couldn't be bothered to wait the estimated 5 minutes to fill the bucket :) )
  • Flow rate of cold in cloakroom (~2m before hits boiler). (Ground floor) COLD 27 lts/min (actually probably higher - I couldn't open the tap fully without the water escaping the basin)

Nice to know that we've not necessarily made a huge mistake and that there's hopefully a solution :) .

I take it that a restriction reduces the flow rate to the bath (in this case) if the unrestricted shower is turned on, leaving more for the shower. Will a restriction reduce the flow rate to the bath when no other hot taps are on?

If not then that definitely sounds good to me.

Thanks.

Reply to
Bromley86

Looks like you have an excellent mains supply, somewhat restricted at the kitchen sink.

Cutting back the flows at the bath and basin cold taps looks like a useful activity.

My guess is that there is some restriction on the HW supply to the bath/shower mixer. Twisted flexible? Valve to the mixer not turned on fully?

Reply to
Ed Sirett

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Sounds as if the pressure of the cold feed to the boiler is dropping when cold is drawn off elsewhere. Probably this is a result of taking the boiler cold feed from whatever happened to be nearby. The low flow from the kitchen cold tap suggests this too. Providing a better supply to the boiler may help. Apart from that, as Ed suggests, restricting flow to the bath hot tap will probably improve the shower's performance. Unfortunately there's no way to do this without permanently reducing the bath's filling rate, but there should be a point at which you can get a reasonable rate for both. There should be a servicing isolation valve on the feed to the bath taps which you can turn partly off to experiment.

Reply to
John Stumbles

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