After sacking my builder for being rubbish and failing a building inspection; I need to sort a few things to pass building control inspection.
The main thing I need to do is to raise my soil pipe above my rear dormer (dormer is new) but the idot thought he could get away with leaving the soil pipe alone, the top is only 1m from the opening window.
I need to turn back the pipe and run up the roof, but how do you fix the pipe to the roof so it does not move around? I am thinking you dont drill the roof (asking for leaks) can you get some sort of clamp that will fit across a roof slate by clamping it, then fix the pipe to that?
If not, what is the normal way to do it?
I have tried googling, but its difficult when you dont know what to search for!
A slate is only held on by two clout nails and can be broken off by giving it a tug upward. I would therefore be careful using them to support other structures that may have significant wind forces on them, I would try and go for the roof timber work, preferably the trusses but failing that the counter-battens/battens.
I'm not sure that there is a *normal* way to do this... I can't recollect ever seeing such an arrangement. As someone else has said, you really don't want to be attaching anything to a slate.
Can't quite visualise the issue... can't it just go vertically upwards to the appropriate height, like a chimney?
Better yet, couldn't you just fit an AAV to the top of the stack where it is now? There are a few rules and regs [1] as to when they can be used, but more often than not you can do so:
David
[1]AFAIK if your sewage pipe isn't at the end of a run (eg a cul-de-sac) and provided one of your near neighbours has a conventional completely open vented stack
My house used to have this arrangement - the soil vent went across the roof and up to above the top of the attic dormer. Looked hideous. ;-) It was cast iron and ran totally unsupported across the tiles, but about 6" clear of them. I removed it, fitted a 90 degree bend and ran it along the side of the house where it vents well clear of any windows.
I understand that in some areas it is only essential every few houses. There are alternative air admittance valves - try and check out if you really need a vent.
AFAIK, the vent doesn't have to be 4" pipe, it could be a thinner drainpipe. It is only a vent at all. A thinner pipe would be easier to handle. Someone may correct me on this. Simon.
Not sure if that is 'legal' but that's exactly what we did in our first house (built 1960). The plumbing drain was 4 inch from about 2 feet above the floor down through and across basement to outside. This was before the days of plastic pipe, the drain to outside was leaded joint cast iron! =46rom there I used a piece of approx 1.5 inch up through the roof as a vent. Sold house years ago but from outside and talking with the now fourth owners looks like it's still working OK! Our current house does have the plastic four inch vent all the way to the roof.
Unless the regs have changed recently there is still a minimum size which is/was approximately 2.5". I used such a pipe within the rafters in a loft conversion a few years back. Reverted to 4" to exit the roof.
Unfortunately it works as a built-in dehumidifier in cold weather. Rather begs the question whether the original 4" pipe did the same when it went straight out through the roof. Being boxed in condensation on the pipe wouldn't have been noticed.
The normal way to get over this problem is to divert the soil pipe in the attic under the roof covering further up the roof slope and support the pipe with clips. At the required height the pipe must go through the roof vertical.
This pipe is used to vent the smells and gases that form within the sewer system and help to transfer the waste vertically to the nearest inspection chamber. The fewer bends within the soil and vent pipe between the highest entry level of a wastepipe to the inspection chamber the better it will work, generally no more than 4 bends. Above this level the pipe can terminate and vent externally wherever is convenient. However if it is within 3.0m of an openable window then it should terminate at least 0.9m above that window.
Air Admittance Valve (AAV)
Sometimes it is difficult to install to arrange a soil pipe so that it can vent to outside air. If this is the case, then a system with an AAV might be able to be used. If the house already has a soil and vent pipe that vents externally, then any additional soil pipe connecting to the same below ground drain may be vented internally using an AAV. This is a proprietary fitting with a valve which allows air to enter the soil pipe, but not to leave it.
An AAV is commonly used within a kitchen or bathroom or in the loft space and the waste pipes can be connected to the pipe it vents it the same way as an externally vented soil and vent pipe. The valve should be placed higher than the top edge of the highest unit (generally a basin or sink) and should be in a place where there is plenty of air flow. If you wish to box around this, then there should be an air gap left at the top and bottom to allow the air in and out.
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